Northern Beaches In Small Long Period Swell

Tuesday January 11, 2011
In keeping with my new year's resolution to get out more, I pointed the Srfnff-mobile towards the northern beaches for a surf at Mbusa's. Al was already in the line-up with a few waves under his belt when I paddled out at 0745. I haven't seen him in over a year, and we enjoyed a fun and productive "reunion" session in 2-3 ft. peeling rights that were just reeling off this unreal sand bar.

It was almost like surfing a reef break, the wave was so well sculpted and formed as it tapered off perfectly into the beach. The drop off one foot out from the dry sand to the water was about three feet, maybe four. I didn't hang around in it for fear of getting swept one way or another in the current. Once past the relatively benign shore break it was an easy and enjoyable paddle into the line-up. The view was perfect, sighting right down the line at the incoming riders, all of whom were having fun in the small right-handers.

There were numerous sand bar peaks up and down this long and winding stretch of coastline and plenty of places to surf, including a good left-hander south of us with only a couple guys on it. Looking up coast several empty tempting peaks were showing all session. With La Nina in full control it's looking like the opportunities to score big Winter swells are going to be extremely limited. That means smaller swells will light up the beach breaks and there should be plenty of action for the rest of the Winter and into Spring.

Thanks to Al for the motivation and local knowledge. He's been surfing here for years and introduced me around to the guys in the line-up. Today the waves were playful and easy to ride, putting up mind pleasing shapes and even some fast sections that were whackable. When it gets bigger here the kid gloves come off though, especially in the shore pound. Al says just to ditch the leash when it gets big 'cause it's not worth taking the risk of getting smashed by a loose SUP in the shore break. But today it was all bread and butter and jam. Rich and tasty!

Also, more thanks to Al for the snaps he got of me today!