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January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Saturday, August 25, 2007

Hawaii - Days Three and Four






August 23, 2007

Up at 4:30A a lot less sore than yesterday. Qigong routine then off to Haunama with Mariposa for our morning snorkel. Surf was still small with the dawn patrol heading out or already in the water. Hot Tip: Arrive at Haunama Bay before 7AM and get in for free. You also don’t pay for parking and don’t have to see the video. Saw a moray eel which are usually hard to find unless you know which hole to look in. We lucked out. Saw the usual array of wrasses, tangs, triggerfish…even a coronet fish (like a barracuda without teeth).

Got back to the condo 9A and the surf had jumped up to three to four feet. Ate breakfast, diddled around, went surfing. Got into the water around noon and surfed for two and a half hours at Paradise and Three’s. Surf had dropped and become inconsistent. Caught about 12 waves in total. Hard not to have a good time in warm water and fun waves. Pops and Kaisers had good waves and big crowds.

August 24, 2007

Up at 4:40 and did qigong waiting for M to snorkel which she decided that she didn’t want to do in favor of sleeping in. Cool, did my yoga routine. I’ve noticed that the waves seem to pick up between 8 and 9A. Paddled out at 0930 and surfed for an hour an a half in the best waves at Paradise yet. Caught over 20 waves.

I love the tropics ‘cause you never know what it’s going to do. Wind came up when I was paddling out…blowing sideshore. Drag. Then it started raining and the surf got consistent and really fun. Caught five waves in about eight minutes…three guys out. No secrets in Waikiki though. The most crowded it got was about ten people which was empty compared to Queens, Canoes and Pops. All friendly, all having fun. Out of the water at 11:30A, looking forward to tomorrow, tired and surfed out for the day.

Hokulea made an appearance for the Oceanfest fundraiser. Contest and festivities are scheduled to finish up on Saturday and Sunday.

Got a hot tip on a free internet connection. Will try it tomorrow.

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