Woke up early, did all my exercises and hit the water at . Caught two quick three foot insiders almost immediately after entering the line-up. Again the waves were two to six feet and fairly consistent. Oddly enough there always seems to be about 16 people in the general take-of area for Threes lefts and rights. After a while you learn who the left sliders are and don’t worry about taking off in front of one of them because you’re going right…they’re going left. Caught a load of waves in a little over an hour and made the long paddle back in saving some energy for this evening’s session. (Last night it was good after 5P and the surf has stayed consistent for the last 48 hours at least. I figure I’ll get a few and the crowd will have thinned a little.) Tomorrow morning I’ll get in one last dawn session before heading back home at .
The evening session had a lot of good surfers in the water. I somehow managed to get about 15 waves in an hour:fifteen. Got one nice set wave and had to dodge people caught inside the whole way…figures…good wave though! Sweet view of
Paddled out at this morning. A pretty good crew was on the main, outside peak and the insiders were being picked over by a less accomplished group. I managed to paddle into four decent waves before pinching a nerve in my back which had me heading for shore. My back has held up well though for all the work (I mean fun) it’s been asked to do. The exercises have paid off. All in all a very satisfying vacation, with plenty of surf and plenty of enjoyment.
Our plane leaves at 1P this afternoon so it’s back to the condo and get packed.
Everything went smooth on the return trip. Made it home in record time and was in bed by . Slept nine hours straight. One our best vacations ever!