Swell this morning was showing a little bigger on the buoys, but waves were smaller at the spots. Go figure. Sea surface was a bit smoother, less confused than yesterday, but the waves were smaller, no doubt. I got more waves, and better rides this morning though.
Paddled out at 0642 and picked off three quick ones at Sarges, a little on the inside of the three guys sitting at the main peak. Like yesterday, the swell was pushing some long walls across the pocket beach, but not closing out quite as much. The inside take-off section was fun and pretty consistent. As the tide came up I gravitated first to Casa Roja, then GDubs (packed) back to CR's and finally back to Sarges for the last wave, which was a good long ride with a steep fast section (my paddle blade got tubed...ha-ha) on the inside. Shore pound was surging pretty good, underscoring the fact that there was some energy in the water.
The usual suspects out in the line-up again, dawn patrol regulars. Got a funny shot of Shawn mugging for the camera. Didn't get much in the way of pics though, too dark. Almost everything was blurry. The surf, in size and quality, was much better than the pics indicate.
The NWS is adamant about rain this afternoon/evening and tonight. When they get this fevered over a forecast they're usually right. So I'm ready to batten down the hatches for the first big blow of the season. No surfing for me tomorrow, teaching FRA NBC. Maybe dp Sunday if it's not a mess.
Oct 3, 2008 (F)
AT= 56F to 57F
WT= 59F at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Mostly overcast
Tide: 2.9' Rising to 3.2'
Wind: Calm to light offshore
Sea Surface: Smooth and glassy with some backwash bump
0600: 7.2 feet @ 11.4 W
0700: 7.2 feet @ 11.4 W
0800: 7.5 feet @ 11.4 W
0900: 7.2 feet @ 11.4 W
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: (0700 hours) 5.1 feet at 10 seconds from 290 degrees and 1.8 feet at 12 seconds from 190 degrees