WNW Wind Swell Fades, But Waves Still Good

The big swell faded to about half size, but still put up fast and fun waves across the reefs this morning. Paddled out on the new Angulo 10-2 "Perfect Wave," and into another rising sun at 0642, headed straight to GDubs. Rode solo for 20 minutes, getting three nice peelers before Greg joined me. We surfed it "alone" for another 20 minutes before the crowd started drifting in.

Surf was semi-consistent with periodic good sets rolling through. After a while, as more people paddled out and the crowd grew to nine or so, waits became longer and good waves, fewer and far between.

I swapped out the big center 2+1 fin set that came with the board for something a bit looser. I slotted the 5.25" Bluecoil center, and two FCS JC 460 sides for a semi-thruster configuration that looked good. I was going to use the smaller, 4.75" center, but erred on the side of just in case. Just in case the tail is going to slide out because of not enough finnage in the water that is. The combo proved to be an efficient winner, making the board loose, fast and wave face sticky, all at the same time.

My wave of the day was a long, steep and fast wall where at one point, the falling lip blasted the tail of my new Angulo 10-2, and broke it loose for a second before the tri-fin set-up re-asserted itself, and I sped off into the next of several sections. It was early on in the session so I was even more stoked when one of the regulars at Sarges told me he'd seen my "wave of the day" from the cliffs before paddling out. Cool bro', thanks for sharing.

All the new Angulos were out in the water today. Andy was on the 11-11, John on the 10-10, and Duane from Kona and me on the 10-2's. Waveyarder Andy was out on his laydown (lamenting the fact that his SUP was still at home). Lot's of "chats" at the gate after surfing. Took me another hour just to pull out of the parking lot.

Ed arrives tomorrow, then he and Andy will be heading south with a truck full, and a trailer full of new Angulos for people, shops and the Sacred Craft Conference. We'll hook up in SB. Should be fun.



Oct 6, 2008 (M)
In: 0642
Out: 0845
AT= 52F to 59F
WT= 59F at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Clear and sunny
Tide: 3.5' Rising to 3.6'
Wind: Light semi-moderate offshore
Sea Surface: Light wind ripples with moderate backwash bump
Buoy: NWS
0600: 5.9 feet @ 12.1 W
0700: 5.9 feet @ 10.8 WNW
0800: 5.9 feet @ 10 WNW
0900: 5.6 feet @ 10.8 WNW
10'2" Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with Bluecoil 5.25" center and Future JC 460 sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: (0700 hours) 4.5 feet at 11 seconds from 295 degrees and 2.6 feet at 14 seconds from 180 degrees