Srfnff

Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Monday, July 27, 2009

South Swell #4 - Day 4

It was cold and gray this morning with patches of thick fog misting in and out of the line-up. At almost light a small group was heading out to the main peak at Scimi's. One longboarder sat on Gray House and already four guys at GDubs. In between sets it was tiny.

The mix of south swell and the northwest swells are fading but still putting up some fun peelers in sets of four to six waves. Especially if you could get one that didn't close out, you could get a nice run down the line on a smooth and fast shoulder. Kelp is still unbelievably thick and graspy.

Five hours on the SUP Saturday and I was ready for some shortboarding today. Thanks again to Christian for letting me keep the Ghost Buster. I busted it out for a two hour session in the clean glass and morning gloom.

My best rides came at the end of the session when I was getting cold and tired. One thing about SUP, when it's cold I like being on the water instead of in it. It's been a cold July on average. Massive high pressure over the great basin has caused an onshore wind pressure gradient that just won't quite. That along with a 2K feet marine inversion has incubated fog every morning for the last two weeks. Water temps are still lowish 50's, which actually isn't that unusal compared to last year when water temps were down also.

The best is yet to come. If El Nino is really happening, then this Fall should be very promising. And we've still got some way to go this Summer, which has been very good for southerly waves.
July 27, 2009 (M)
In: 0600
Out: 0815
AT= 52.8F to 52.6F
WT= 54.5F
Wx: Marine inversion overcast
Tide: 2.2'Falling to 0.2'
Wind: Calm to light onshore
Sea Surface: Glassy
6-0 Freeline (Mini-Simmons) Ghost Buster with twin glassed on keel fins
Bathymetry: Rock reefs and sand
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Farshore*)
Time NDBC Data (approx.) CDIP Data
0500: 4.9 feet @ 14.8 S (310 and 185) (2-4 ft. wave faces)
0600: 4.9 feet @ 11.4 NW (295 and 175) (2-4 ft. wave faces)
0700: 5.9 feet @ 14.8 S (310 and 185) (2-4 ft. wave faces)
0800: 5.6 feet @ 8.3 NW (310 and 185) (2-4 ft. wave faces)
0900: 5.6 feet @ 8.3 NW (310 and 180) (2-4 ft. wave faces)
1000: 5.2 feet @ 13.8 S (305 and 175) (2-4 ft. wave faces)

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