Srfnff

Srfnff
G. Niblock on the L41 TipSUP Noserider. Photo: J. Chandler

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Wind Swell at the Beaches

When the swell drops down, and it's glassy and small, who ya gonna call? Ghost Busters! That's right another session this morning with the GB. This board is just too much fun.

The only thing in the water right now is wind swell. The NW and the southie are completely gone. The wind swell is coming from wind that is being generated off the Oregon coast. Nearby winds are calmer, thus conditions are smoother and there isn't as much wind chop in the water. Hopefully water temps will go up a bit 'cause the water is frickin' cold! I really look forward to surfing without booties in the Summer but after an hour this morning my feet were pretty numb.

This morning's surf turned into a good practice and fun workout session. These waves are best surfed leash-less, after all, I'm only 30 yards from shore. The surf was small but had some zip. Some even barreling up before coming over pretty hard in the pock marked sandy shallows. With the not so variable shades of gray between the color of the sea and the overcast skies, some softies just jacked up and pitched out, leaving the rider's (or should I say now riderless) board to fend for itself in the shoreward heading white wash. The more aggressive surfer would sprint into the beach, grab the board and paddle hard out the back and into the line-up, thus ensuring a decent cardiovascular jump into a pounding, but fleeting anaerobic moment or two. I'm a little less aggro than that (but who knows, maybe I'll kick it up a notch for the better workout in future) so opting for the body surf into the beach and the slow, methodical walk and paddle back through the shorie worked for today.

Any way you look at it, it was fun.
July 28, 2009 (Tu)
In: 0830
Out: 0940
AT= 55.2F to 55.6F
WT= 54.7F
Wx: Marine inversion overcast
Tide: 2.2'Falling to 2.0'
Wind: Calm to very light offshore
Sea Surface: Glassy
6-0 Freeline (Mini-Simmons) Ghost Buster with twin glassed on keel fins
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Farshore*)
Time NDBC Data (approx.) CDIP Data
0700: 5.2 feet @ 7.7 WNW (315 and 195) (1-3 ft. wave faces)
0800: 5.2 feet @ 7.7 WNW (305 and 185) (1-3 ft. wave faces)
0900: 5.2 feet @ 6.7 WNW (310 and 170) (1-3 ft. wave faces)
1000: 5.2 feet @ 7.1 WNW (315 and 210) (1-3 ft. wave faces)

1 comment:

  1. Those photos look an awful lot like my old stomping grounds on the Cape...quite a change from the reefs! My back/shoulder are slowly on the mend, but it was worth the pain for the great waves last week.

    AG

    ReplyDelete