Thursday, October 25, 2007
Marine Layer - Windswell Return
Along with a very foggy morning with visibility at paddle out around 50 feet, the North PAC has dished up a nice little windswell and some shoulder to head high waves during the best sets.
Michael and I paddled out a little after 7AM in a moderate shore pound and a heavy fog. The tide was coming in and about four foot so we weren't expecting the chest high set of three waves that cleaned us up on our way out to the take off spot. Silly us! We readjusted though and caught a few at Sarge's before paddling over to GW's and catching some fun insiders that were walling up and dishing some long rides. I tried to get some pics of Michael and posted one here because it gives an indication of the overall surf this day, but it was so foggy and low light it came out pretty blurry. Arrgggh! The learning curve....
Michael had to cut-out early so I got a couple with one other lay down surfer before Andy and Sam paddled over. Conditions were really challenging this morning as there was a lot of bump in the water caused by the swell bouncing off the cliffs. The sea surface was an Indo Board for sure. It was only Sam's second or third time on a SUP and he did really well! Andy was riding the board I saw Gustav riding the other day at Sarge's. It's a 10'6" or so swallow tail with a turned up nose.
Andy finally had a wetsuit on (sort of) and was helping Sam with some minor instruction. Sam was paddling all over the place, getting his "sea legs" as he said. In no time at all this long time longboarder will be ripping.
Speaking of ripping, Andy said Ed is coming out with three new SUP models. (He also promised a new website coming soon!) One of them is a 10 footer and as soon as it is available we can try it out. That should really be cool. The new 10' has more rocker than the 10'4" so it should be more maneuverable, looser. I'm starting to get used to my Olohe and learning how to surf it better. It doesn't lay over on the rail like it could, but it is fast and the tail configuration holds well high and steep. It will pivot turn efficiently on a late take off in a steep face. A great board! I hope the new 10' Angulo will not lose any paddling efficiency with less length and increased rocker. More on all this later, it should be exciting. I'm stoked already!
October 25, 2007 (Th)
1st Wave: 0715
Wave count: 10+
Wx: Heavy fog clearing to overcast
Tide: 3.9 Rising to 5.8
Wind: Variable light onshores
Sea Surface: Increasingly bumpy with backwash.
(Buoy down intermittently most of the day.)
0300: 6.2 @ 12.1 WNW
1200: 8.5 @ 10.1 WNW
1400: 8.9 @ 11.4 WNW
1700: 10.5 @ 12.1 NW
10'4" Angulo SUP
Reefs: Rock and sand
Waves: 4' @ 11 (approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model