Surprise! NZ Gale Swell - Day One

Surprise...the NZ swell forecast for tomorrow arrived early. I slept in but as I soon as I saw the data and webcam shots I collected my stuff and headed to the beach. Arrived on scene around 0800 and was paddling out at 0817.

Surfed Roots again, mostly by myself or with a couple others. The wind was on it early which pulled some of the quality out of the morning. There were lulls and multi-wave sets, just like the last south a couple days ago. Tres 8's was good but wally. Only a handful of people surfing this morning...people weren't on it 'cause all the forecasters missed it by a day (which was really the fault of Wave Watch 3 model).

Bumped into Glen in the parking lot, hadn't seen him in an age. At 62 he looks better than the last time I saw him, almost a year ago. Slight, thin and athletic he was going to surf his 5-6 mini-Simmons displacement hull, or his 6-0 twinny. He went with the Simmons. Not a lot of 62 year old guys (I mean people) who can surf six foot or sub-six foot shortboards. I wanna be like him when I grow up.

June 10, 2009 (W)

In: 0817
Out: 1015
AT= 57F
WT= 58F
Wx: Partly cloudy
Tide: -0.28' Rising to 1.2'
Wind: Steady light to moderate south westerlies
Sea Surface: Light to moderate wind chop
6-10 Ward Coffey EPS (Marko Styrolite)/Epoxy Custom

Fin set-up: Thruster with Future Fins AM1 and Future 350 sidebites
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Farshore*)
0700: 3.0 feet @ 17.4 SW (210) (2-3 ft. wave faces)
0800: 3.0 feet @ 17.4 SSW (210) (2-3 ft. wave faces)
0900: 3.3 feet @ 17.4 SSW (210) (3-4 ft. wave faces)
1000: 3.3 feet @ 17.4 SW (210) (3-4 ft. wave faces)
1100: 3.0 feet @ 14.8 SSW (205) (2-3 ft. wave faces)