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January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Monday, June 1, 2009

Wave Drought Eases, Gloom Continues

Finally. Bagged a few waist/chest high waves this morning at the beaches. It was great to get wet again. I guess I can stop taking the Prozac and put the razorblades back in the medicine chest. What a wave drought!

Paddled out into a lone peak at 0804 on the Coffey 6-10. A relative crowd was on another downcoast peak, but mine didn't look bad. Surfed the first half hour by myself. Then a couple folks came out and joined me. The onshore wind, which has been incessant for the last almost two weeks, even relented a bit in that it didn't come up until close to 0900.

I had the Pavel Speed Dialer fins installed and was looking forward to getting a surf at long last, and to comparing the speeds with the future quads. Super high tech sophisticated fins are wasted on me I guess. I'm a beer guy so save the champaign for somebody else. I just didn't notice any appreciable difference between the speeds and the futures. There was no additional or enhanced drive, stability, or maneuverability. As a matter of fact, the speeds were a little skitterish, and they did not stabilize well in the white water. After my surf I popped out the speeds and re-installed the futures. If this little west wind swell holds up I'll get a few more waves tomorrow morning too.

Surfed for an hour and got out after a long left put up a wall with some room to maneuver. It was a good way to end the session. As I walked up the beach an injured or sick seal pup was crawling slowly up the sand. He wasn't in good shape but no trauma was visible. I called M who called the Park rangers and animal rescue. Hope the little guy makes it.
June 1, 2009 (M)
In: 0803
Out: 0900
AT= 53-54F
WT= 53F
Wx: Low clouds and overcast
Tide: 2.9' Falling to 2.2'
Wind: Light to increasing southeasterlies
Sea Surface: Light wind chop
6-10 Ward Coffey EPS (Marko Styrolite)/Epoxy Custom
Fin set-up: Pavel quads
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Nearshore)
0730: 1.6 feet @ 11.1 W
0800: 1.6 feet @ 10.5 W (2-3 ft. wave faces)
0830: 1.6 feet @ 10.5 W
0900: 1.3 feet @ 10.5 W (2-3 ft. wave faces)
0930: 1.3 feet @ 10.5 W

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