South Swell 2S - Day 2

OK, so 0515 is just a bit too early to see, but 0525 isn't. Me and Andy paddled out at Roots looking for some more of this delicious south swell, and although it was starting to drop, we weren't disappointed with today's waves.

The set-up was the same but the tide was a little lower, waves a bit smaller, a little less consistent in that there were fewer big multi-wave sets and it was a whole lot more crowded. But that's the way it is on a weekend especially when word is out about the swell, there's a big surf contest at Scimi's and a major car show in Chapeauville.

We did get it for about 20 minutes alone before the crowd started drifting out. Tres 8's was crowded from the gitgo...I counted at least a dozen peeps on the horizon in the gloomy pre-dawn light. Surf overall was about the same except it was tending to close out a bit more. Again the south swell was wally, but every once in a while a series of sections would hook up giving the rider one sweet and fast ride. Most riders driving into the pockets weren't coming out. One booming set of 8-10 waves just put up overhead bombs that closed out all the way across the pocket beach. The cool thing was that after that set everyone moved too far upcoast, leaving me alone to pick off three or four smaller waves at the peak before returning to a more productive takeoff spot.

I pulled the rear set of quads and put the tri center fin back in to remake the Coffey 6-10 back into a thruster. (I love the fin slot inserts Ward provided. They make for a nice tail section bottom that the water can flow over smoothly and without turbulence or interruption.) It surfed loose and easy off the tail making bottom turns and turnbacks off the wall smooth and quick. As a quad, the board surfs best rail to rail, while as a thruster the board pivots more effortlessly off the tail. The more fin slots the better. It feels like different fin configurations give you multiple boards all rolled up into one.

June 6, 2009 (Sa)

In: 0525
Out: 0715
AT= 50-55F
WT= 56F
Wx: Partly cloudy
Tide: -.4' Rising to .7'
Wind: Steady light offshores
Sea Surface: Glassy to light wind chop
6-10 Ward Coffey EPS (Marko Styrolite)/Epoxy Custom

Fin set-up: Thruster with Future Fins AM1 and Future 350 sidebites
Bathymetry: Sand bars
Deep Water Swell and Wave Face Heights CDIP Archive
Buoy: NWS (Farshore*)
0400: 3.9 feet @ 16 SSW (1-3 ft. wave faces)
0500: 4.3 feet @ 16 S (1-3 ft. wave faces)
0600: 3.6 feet @ 16 SSW (1-3 ft. wave faces)
0700: 3.9 feet @ 16 S (1-3 ft. wave faces)
0800: 3.9 feet @ 16 SSW (1-3 ft. wave faces)
0900: 3.9 feet @ 16 S (1-3 ft. wave faces)
1000: 3.6 feet @ 14.8 S (1-3 ft. wave faces)