Srfnff

Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Wednesday, October 31, 2007

Nice Waves on a Morning Turned Chilly











Enjoyed a fun session this morning that started out with some sun and ended with the fog slowly filling in overhead. Got some pics of Greg, Mike and his friend which I will email to them if they remember to contact me.

There was a light northwesterly wind blowing that was cold. The sea surface was slightly mottled until the fog filled in and then it turned to sheet glass. After a while the color of the water matched the color of the sky. I took a nice one into Tweeners and the wall was so glassy and color matched I almost couldn't tell the difference between sky and ocean. Beautifully congruent in a way that is rarely seen.

Andy paddled out after about an hour and we enjoyed a load of waves for the next hour fifteen. To get the really good frontal surf shots one must be in front of the surfer (there's a surprise!) and on the inside. We almost had a major head-on which Andy averted at the last moment by kicking out just before we collided. It's a good thing his leash isn't a foot longer.

This little windswell should stick around for a few more days. Too bad I'll miss tomorrow's session, but I'm over the hill for negotiations. Drat! I'll have to wait 'til Friday.
October 31, 2007 (W)
In: 0711
1st Wave: 0719
Out: 0933
Wave count: 20+
AT=54
WT=58
Wx: Clear with low clouds to incoming fog
Tide: 3.61 Falling to 3.34
Wind: Light from the northwest to calm
Sea Surface: Slightly mottled to glassy.
Buoy: NWS
0700: 5.9 @ 13.8 WNW
0800: 6.2 @ 12.9 WNW
0900: No data
1000: No data
10'4" Angulo SUP
Rock reefs
Waves: 4' @ 13 (approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model

4 comments:

  1. Ahhh, the pointbreaks of Santa Cruz. Going to be cool to see the differences in style from the SUP guys who ride beach breaks primarily and those who have the good fortune to live in the land of the point break. Photos are looking good by the way- Olympus, right?

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  2. Olympus 790SW. Hopefully I'll get better with the camera. One thing is essential...light and plenty of it from the right direction. My afternoon shots have been horrible, faces black in shadow. Some morning shots are good if there is good light on the subject's face...otherwise the figures are pretty blurry. Check the Daily Bread blog site, he uses an Oly 770SW and his shots are insane!

    I sent a long response to your very nice compliments re my blog which got lost in translation when I tried to change gmail accounts. Suffice it to say that your comments were very well received in the spirit of aloha and kindness with which they were sent. Muchicimas gracias amigo!

    Re Tim, I own two of his "ghost" shapes from Harbour, a nine foot wingpin and a 9'10" Nineteen. Both great boards. An extremely under-rated and unknown shaper. Probably one of the top guys in the state if not the world and certainly in the surfing community.

    Yeah re point breaks, they're a lot easier to surf and easier on the body too. It's always nice to have a channel to paddle back through. When I want to practice crashing through the whitewash I go searching for the whitewater, it isn't a constant presence. SUPing in beach break has to make you better, faster.

    Looking forward to some warm water SUPing with you and Mash one of these days. Mexico? Always a possibility. Also I read your blog everyday as it is truly informative, well written and intelligent. Come surf our chilly waters soon...(I want to ride that green board of yours!;-))

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  3. Hey SRFNFF- you're welcome to ride any of the Ashley planks that you're interested in- as long as I get to ride that small Angulo you have.

    I got a chance to check those out at the Sacred Craft show and they seem to be a "sensible" smaller SUB (ie not ridiculously narrow- I've been on some that were crazy narrow- talk about ol' wobble knee) a smaller board that made sense to me.

    Also if you get down to LA sometime you should pop over to Tim's shop- I was just there yesterday and there's a steady stream of guys "in -the-know" about the Stamps machine. There were also some very sweet Stamps longboards in there- I see them, I want them.

    J.Ashley

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  4. John
    Bring your SUPs and let's go! Between you and me and Mash we'll have plenty of boards to pass around.

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