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January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Monday, March 24, 2008

Small Surf; Weather Holding


The unusually perdurable and clear, sunny, summer-like weather is holding, although there is a massive fog bank lurking several miles offshore sending cool, light onshore breezes to the beach. I paddled out at Patty's and down to TVA's, looking for the same sand bar peak I surfed with Buzz and his son last Friday. One other guy out a half mile away. Other than him, just me and the seals.

The tide was too low and the peak just wasn't doing it. There were some messy double bump lines just south so I surfed that for about 45 minutes before tweaking my left glut after kicking out of a close-out in the unstable and frothy sea surface. Figured it wasn't worth a further effort so cut my surf short and headed back to Patty's for the take-out.

Went to Mark for an adjustment and it's calmed down enough to live life without having to take it easy, or resort to the muscle relaxers, or even the high dose ibuprofen. Hopefully it'll disappear by tomorrow.

Forecasters are calling for cold low pressure to move down from BC late Tuesday or Wednesday, which is about the same time the wind swell is supposed to pick up a bit. I wouldn't doubt that it will cool down some soon, and I'd be surprised not to see fog tomorrow morning, or even later this evening.
March 24, 2008 (M)
In: 0940
Out: 1050
AT= 53 - 54 degrees
WT= 50.5 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Sunny, clear and cool
Tide: 2.39 Rising to 3.3
Wind: Calm to light south/southwest
Sea Surface: Light rolling sea, glassy to light wind texturing
Buoy: NWS
The buoy is delivering sporadic data.
0300: 6.6 feet @ 13.8 Seconds NW
1300: 5.9 feet @ 12.1 Seconds WNW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Fin set-up - Single 9.75" Greenough Stage 6 cutaway
Sand bars
Waves: 4 feet at 12 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model

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