Srfnff

Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Thursday, March 13, 2008

West/WNW Swell Arrives Tomorrow

In the roof gutter's downspout, the random and oblivious staccato beating of the light drizzle's wash woke me. No reason to get up. Wife still on vacation. Kids grown and independent. Body aching from two days of hard paddling and stand up surfing. Lay there. Doze. Pray. Assess for further injuries. Re-assess.

Once up, drop six ibuprofen and check the computer for the alleged swell that's coming. Yep! There it is, hitting the faraway buoy at 5AM with small but rising six foot waves at 20 second intervals.

NWS forecasting winds to be light before kicking up from the northwest on Saturday. Friday's dawn patrol (Lord and body willing), here I come.

Update: At 8AM a 16 second south pulse showed up on the nearshore buoy. I thought this to be an aberration at first, but at 11AM and Noon, there it was again. No souths are showing in SoCal, although south passed through there yesterday. I thought that the south was too weak to make it up here, but...here it is. (See updated buoy data image.) Some spots look pretty good on the rising tide. Still...I'm resting up for tomorrow.

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