Small, Long Period Background Swell

Yesterday, the small, long period southerly swell gave way to small, long period westerly swell. Waves were where you could find them in the sporadic rain and overcast. This morning is seeing size increasing and period decreasing. The swell is not strong enough to overcome the 9AM, 4.7 foot high tide, but there could be some peaks at the beachies.

I found some new toys to play with over the past few days (when there is no surf some intelligent work can actually get done!) one of which is Adobe Photoshop Elements "Photomerge" feature. I can combine multiple image files to make one image. The image at right is four quadrants of QuikScat images combined into one which gives a very good look at surface level winds in the NPAC. Combined with the NWS animated satellite images it is a veritable "picture window" from space. (Let's hear it for President Kennedy who got the space program started back in the 60's!)

Thanks to Adam Wright's SoCal wave forecasting website I understand better, and am using the CDIP (Coastal Data Information Program in conjunction with Scripps Institute of Oceanography (SIO) buoy data which seems to hone in and display that elusive south swell energy I've been having a hard time seeing.

So enough of the egghead geek alert stuff, time to check the beachies and see how the increased size is affecting the wave action. Will take two boards, the SUP and the 7'6" Shlong. More later...

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Ended up screwing around too long at home and taking only the SUP because I had a chiro appt. with Mark at 1100. Put in at RDM at high tide after spying a nice little peak down by the picnic tables. Once again, no one out but me. A beautiful morning for a paddle and surf in the bright sunshine and Spring colors. The concrete boat looks good from the SUP perspective.

Peaks were about waist-chest high and offered some soft turnable slopes and fast inside walls prior to piling over at the sand, perfect for trying out the new Futures 9" cutaway with FCS GL sides. I continue to be amazed at the difference a fin set-up can make in board performance. This is the best 2+1 configuration so far for down the line speed (drive) and maneuverability. I was able to swivel the board around sharply at will on kick out, which I haven't been able to do consistently with all the other fin configs I've used so far. Suhweeeeet!

Yesterday's light rain and todays high tide conspired to help drain the creek (which is full of bacteria and bird shizizit) into the ocean at the Sea Sleeze parking lot. Hard to tell what the coliform count was but I was inspired to not fall in the water and if I did to pinch the nostrils closed. Only one sinus infection so far this Winter/Spring season and I'd like to keep it at that.

The Windstar finally took it's last trip to the beach. Two engines (3.8L Ford six, curse of all internal combustion engines) and two blown head gaskets, not to mention the tranny rebuild. What a POS! I'm not putting any more $$ into it...that's it! Won't sell it either. Time to give it away.

I guess I'll be looking for a rack for the VW.
April 3, 2008 (Th)
In: 0930
Out: 1030
AT= 54.1 - 58.4 degrees
WT= 51.1 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Sunny and cool with partial clouds
Tide: 4.1 Falling to 3.3
Wind: Calm to light south/southwest
Sea Surface: Smooth and glassy with bands of light wind texturing
Buoy: NWS
0900: 4.9 feet @ 14.8 seconds West
1000: 4.6 feet @ 14.8 seconds West
1100: 4.6 feet @ 14.8 seconds WSW
1200: 4.6 feet @ 14.8 seconds SSW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Fin set-up: 2+1 with Future 9" Cutaway center fin and FCS GL sides
Beach break sand bars
CDIP: 3.2 feet at 14 seconds from 300 degrees and 1.8 feet at 17 seconds from 185 degrees