The awaited west northwest swell made landfall this morning at 10AM with the buoy reading 5.9 feet at 14.8 seconds. Winds were starting to ramp up too. But the good news is that winds were generally northwest at six to 12 mph, with gusts of 12 to 17 mph (Force 4 on the Beaufort Scale). In the low to rising tide, this made for some fast and steep faces in the waist to chest/shoulder high range on set waves, with howling offshores holding them up.
I watched the farshore buoy constantly this morning, looking for the swell. I also kept my eye on the PWS to see what the wind was doing. After I determined that the swell was in, and the winds were offshore, I began to think that I could surf an empty lineup with good waves on the incoming tide. This is what happened.
I managed to sneak in a lonesome session with only me out for about an hour before being joined by Kim, then Wayne and Jim. I exited the scene after an hour forty five minutes, fairly exhausted. Waves were extremely consistent. Quality and crowd was so good after a while I just waited for the set waves. Sometimes the heavy wind made standing up and paddling so difficult, I just dropped down and knee paddled. The wind literally blew me off my board several times. I don't often sit down during a SUP session, but I did today because of the difficulty of standing in the high winds.
Paying attention pays dividends. And having a schedule that is flexible enough to surf at a moments notice, is priceless.
April 24, 2008 (Th)
AT= 69 degrees
WT= 51.4 degrees at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Clear, sunny and breezy
Tide: 0.61 Rising to 1.99
Wind: Breezy offshores 12 to 17 mph
Sea Surface: Major wind texturing
Sporadic buoy data
1100: 5.9 feet @ 14.8 WNW
1200: 6.9 feet @ 14.8 WNW
1300: 6.2 feet @ 13.8 WNW
1400: 6.9 feet @ 13.8 WNW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with Bluecoil 5.5" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: 6.1 feet at 14 seconds from 305 degrees and 1.5 feet at 14 seconds from 195 degrees