Srfnff

Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Thursday, April 17, 2008

Morning Shortboard; Afternoon SUP

Got in the water around 0815 at Rey-Reys on the 6'8". Small wind swell and a rising tide made for a few fun rides into the backwash coming off the sloping beach. Still getting used to the 6'8" and tend to be very heavy footed, especially coming off the SUP. Interesting transition, a study in sensitivity. Wind was light, mostly glassy conditions, water cold.

Paddle surfed Sarges and Gdubs on a low tide rising in the afternoon. Weather was warm and sunny so I threw on the spring suit, boardshorts, long sleeve rashie, new Dakine sun protection hat and dark glasses. Got in the water around 3:45PM and was warm and toasty until about an hour later and a couple dunkings. Made me wish I had a full wettie on. But I do love paddle surfing in the lightweight ensemble. It feels so good!

Hat is great but if you're going to wipeout the chin strap needs to be tight or it will be wiped off your head. The verdict on the dark glasses is that they are really nice to have in order to shade the eyes. But are a hassle when they get wet, especially if the water is really cold. Not only can't you clear the water drops off the inside and outside of the lenses very well, the cold water condenses on the inside of the lens next to your warm skin. This fogs the lenses and makes things even worse in terms of visibility. I may try some "Fog Off" but it seems like more hassle than it's worth. So...for paddling, glasses good; for surfing, glasses not so good.

Met a SUPer out at Gdubs who was from Oregon via New Hampshire and Hawaii. Then talked with a longboarder from Seattle who was on his way down to SD to talk with Joe Blair about a new performance SUP. Small world.

More cold weather and strong winds are on tap for this weekend. Small craft warnings have been posted for northerly winds. A Canadian cold front is moving through, lowering temps and bringing cloud cover. Good news is that the wind swell will increase wave size if conditions don't go down the tubes. At this writing (0830 Friday April 18) local winds are already out of the southeast...a bad sign.
April 17, 2008 (Th)
In: 0815 and 1545
Out: 0940 and 1715
AT= 50 - 80 degrees
WT= 52 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Clear, hot and sunny with offshore fog moving in
Tide: 3.8 to 4.2 Rising; and 0.8 Rising to 1.9
Wind: Calm to light offshore
Sea Surface: Glassy with a slight roll
Buoy: NWS
Buoy delivering sporadic data:
0800: 6.2 feet @ 12 seconds WNW
0900: 6.6 feet @ 9.1 seconds NW
1000: 6.6 feet @ 10.8 seconds WNW
-----------------------------
1500: 5.9 feet @ 10.8 seconds NW
1600: 6.6 feet @ 10.8 seconds NW
1800: 5.9 feet @ 11.4 seconds NW
Bob Miller Bluecoil Devolution 6'8" DT5
Fin set-up: Future Quads: Scimitar 451's
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with Bluecoil 5.5" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Sand bars
CDIP: 4.8 feet at 11 seconds from 310 degrees and 1.7 feet at 17 seconds from 175 degrees and
5.5 feet at 9 seconds from 310 degrees and 0.9 feet at 17 seconds from 180 degrees

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