Hot Wx Part 3 - Swell Fills In Late

After waiting all day, the swell finally filled in late, around 3PM. But only the best spots were breaking with any size, and even then there wasn't a lot of juice. Call it an aberrational late season NPAC swell, like a mutant with stunted growth, not quite whole...but sweet in it's own limping way.

I checked the dawn patrol but even though the buoys were showing 12 second periods, the waves were weak. I went home and went back to bed. (One of the benefits of being semi-retired.) Weather was superb, better than yesterday with temps at the beach in the 80's. Headed back to Sarges and paddled out around 3P. Caught a few waves there but the word was out and the weekend crowd was filling in as fast as the swell. Met Sonja who was out for her first SUP in an Angulo 10'8". For her first time she ripped! Balanced, poised, paddling well, and even caught her first SUP wave. Another surfer hooked on SUP no doubt.

Since it was crowded I paddled down to the Point and back surfing different breaks in between. One minor confrontation with a rabid local at Scimi's, but hey, he had a point. Even though I had no intention of taking any waves at the crowded spots, he wanted me to move on. Could he have been more articulate and tactful...of course, but we're dealing with surfers here, and I know this guy has a rep as a hot head. So whatever. I just treated him like a big dog. Good boy, I hear ya, take it easy big fella, see ya later.

But while I was there I got a nice pic sequence of a guy on a longboard. (Published a couple here.) Got a couple waves off peak and then moved on to the Point where I picked up another wave in ultra-crowded conditions, then back to Sarges. A nice paddle on a nice day.

I'll probably sit tomorrow out and let the crowd have their way in the fading swell. Could be the last NPAC action we all see until next Fall. I'm glad I got some of it today.
May 16, 2008 (F)
In: 1455
Out: 1620
AT= 76 to 69 degrees
WT= 52 degrees at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Sunny and hot with very light high clouds
Tide: 1.68 Rising to 2.3 feet
Wind: SSW at 5 mph to South East at 5 mph
Sea Surface: Glassy in the kelp to wind ripples
Buoy: NWS
1400: 6.2 feet @ 14.8 WNW
1500: 6.6 feet @ 16 WNW
1600: 6.6 feet @ 14.8 WNW
1700: 6.2 feet @ 14.8 WNW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with Bluecoil 5.5" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: 5.5 feet at 14 seconds from 296 degrees and 1.1 feet at 12 seconds from 170 degrees