Srfnff

Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Waves (Small); Windswell (Weak); Weather (Warming)

High pressure is starting to dominate the weather landscape. Even though the NWS predicted 81 degrees as today's high (in reallity the thermometer made it only to 72) this hot spell is in the air and we can feel it. Tomorrow and the next few days are going to be just like I like. Hot with no fog!

Surfed this afternoon on the incoming tide as I knew the windswell would be weak...and it was. I should have paddled out an hour earlier although I don't think it would have made that much of a difference. I suspect that the only reason we had the surfable waves that we did was the genesis of the nearshore wind.

I surfed inside Sarge's (with three other neophyte longboarders just sitting...sitting...sitting outside). I caught a ton of low energy waves on the inside. Gutless, mushed out insiders. Paddled over to GDubs against the southwest wind and back. Got a couple nice walls and nose rides on the Olohe outside Sarges in front of the rip-rap, but all in all it was a lackluster surf day. But at least it wasn't flat.
May 13, 2008 (Tu)
In: 1420
Out: 1535
AT= 72 to 66 degrees
WT= 50 degrees at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Clear and Sunny
Tide: 1.0 Rising to 2 feet
Wind: Southwest at 6 mph
Sea Surface: Wind ripples
Buoy: NWS
Sporadic buoy data
1300: 5.9 feet @ 10 WNW
1400: 5.9 feet @ 7.7 NW
1500: 4.9 feet @ 7.7 NW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with Bluecoil 5.5" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: 3.3 feet at 10 seconds from 320 degrees and 1.2 feet at 14 seconds from 170 degrees

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