To paraphrase a line from legendary Texas power bluesman Stevie Ray Vaughan, "If the South is a rockin' don't bother knockin', come on in."
Although the local buoys are not reading it (CDIP finally sensed it at 0600), the long awaited, much anticipated south swell has arrived in full battle gear. Although no where near as epic as last year's April 12 south swell, this child, raised up in it's southern roots, delivered some solid licks this morning at dawn.
I was surprised to see my favorite reef going off and scrambled to get myself and gear down to the beach. This spot usually only works from a minus one to a plus one foot tide, but the size, direction and swell combo overrode the tide (at least for a while). As I pulled up in the srfnff-mobile a seven wave set was smokin' in off the Yellow House point. Light offshores were burning the wave tops off. With a limited rising tidal window, I was paddling out in the dim light at 0600.
First few waves were off Apt. House point because I couldn't pass them up. But Yellow House point delivered an eight wave set that red lined the stoke-o-meter and the rest of the session was spent there in chest to head high beauties.
Granted, these weren't the best waves the district had to offer, but they were mine. I surfed alone for an hour and half. I stopped counting waves at six after the first fifteen minutes. I calmed down after the first half hour and then just picked off the best set waves. South sets stayed consistent at around seven waves per.
May be an evening low tide rising sesh in my future. UPDATE: SW/WSW swell hit the buoys shortly after I finished my morning session. 42 posted 4.9 feet at 17.4 seconds southwest by 2PM; at the same time, 36 showed 1.6 feet @ 15.4 southwest. Have decided to opt for another dawn patrol session tomorrow morning when it will be less crowded.
May 2, 2008 (F)
AT= 41 to 46 degrees
WT= 50 degrees at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Clear with high streaky clouds
Tide: 2.55 Rising to 3.65
Wind: Light north westerly to easterly offshores
Sea Surface: Glassy in the kelp beds to light wind ripples
Sporadic buoy data
0500: 5.2 feet @ 10 WNW
0700: 5.6 feet @ 7.7 NW
0800: 5.6 feet @ 7.7 NW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with Bluecoil 5.5" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: 3.9 feet at 9 seconds from 310 degrees and 2.1 feet at 17 seconds from 200 degrees