Srfnff

Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Thursday, May 1, 2008

South Is In The House

I don't care what the data says...the south is in the house. Surfed late afternoon in waist to shoulder high lines that were more than just wind swell. Paddled out at Sarges and moved over to Gdubs 'cause it was so frickin' sweet over there. More guys out than I like but whatever...still got some nice ones and got to see some sweet rides by the mostly longboarders who were on scene.

The buoy data did not tell the tale. Sets were three to five waves and inconsistent, entirely consistent with a long period swell. My pet reefs that aren't supposed to break on this high a tide, were showing signs of life...consistent with a genuine bona fide swell.

Wx is warming and the big winds have fled. But the easterly winds turned offshore and blew some pretty pictures in our faces with the softening light.

Dawn patrol in the morning...we're getting back to where it's light enough to see at o'dark thirty. The antidote to the weekend crowd for those willing to hunt the worm early.
May 1, 2008 (Th)
In: 1626
Out: 1745
AT= 61 to 62 degrees
WT= 49.5 degrees at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Clear, sunny with light easterly winds turning offshore late
Tide: 2.0 Rising to 3.6
Wind: East to offshore 7 to 8 mph
Sea Surface: Glassy in the kelp beds to light wind ripples
Buoy: NWS
1500: 7.9 feet @ 10 WNW
1600: 6.6 feet @ 10 NW
1700: 6.9 feet @ 12.9 NW
1800: 6.9 feet @ 12.1 NW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with Bluecoil 5.5" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: 6.6 feet at 10 seconds from 300 degrees and 0.8 feet at 17 seconds from 170 degrees

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