Srfnff

Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

Fun Wind Swell Waves; Superb Weather

With the great weather, small wind swell waves, and corporate reports of an incoming (but non-existent) south swell, the line-up (even at dawn patrol) was experiencing summer conditions, i.e. it was crowded compared to what it's been all Spring.

I finally made the dawn patrol and hit the water at 0550 hours, still late 'cause I could have been padding 20 minutes earlier. The moderate wind swell wasn't strong enough to overcome the 3.3 foot high tide and Sarge's was flat. Everything north of there was working OK, getting bigger and more consistent the further towards the point I looked. Scimi's had some sweet sets and was pretty consistent given the lightweight nature of the wind swell.

I started inside at GDubs and picked up a few there and even an occasional set wave wide of the folks sitting on the main peak. Greg paddled out after a while and we discussed the merits of him coming over to the dark side. He'll be picking up his new Angulo Nui SUP soon.

Around 0700 hours GDubs began to fill up with long and shortboarders. Because the waves were (like yesterday) still pretty sectiony I decided to paddle back to Sarge's and see if the lowering tide had made things better. I picked up a nice set wave just as I arrived on scene and surfed for about a half hour by myself, picking up some nice peelers before Andy paddled out. We surfed another half hour before being joined by Andy (a different Andy, this one of Olade fame, try it, you'll like it!) and Greg. Then it was just the four of us in fun but somewhat inconsistent waves in pristine conditions until I paddled in to the beach.

Winds are progged to stay strong through the night and into tomorrow, so I'll dawn patrol again in the morning and hope for some good exercise in some fun waves.
June 11, 2008 (W)
In: 0550
Out: 0830
AT= 51 to 64 degrees
WT= 51 degrees at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Sunny with clear blue skies
Tide: 3.42 Falling to 2.4
Wind: ESE Calm to gusts of 6 mph
Sea Surface: Glassy to light wind rippling
Buoy: NWS
0400: 9.5 feet @ 10.8 NW
0500: 8.9 feet @ 10.8 NW
0700: 8.2 feet @ 11.4 NW
1000: 9.2 feet @ 10.8 NW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with Bluecoil 5.5" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: 8.8 feet at 8 seconds from 325 degrees and 1.2 feet at 17 seconds from 170 degrees

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