combo swell that just keeps keepin' on. Only it's mo' bettah because the inversion layer has been blown away by an offshore flow and conditions are perfect!Paddled out at 0550 for what was to become a 4.5 hour session. Lot's of people out this morning. I was joined at Yellow House by Priscilla and her brother Doug, Patrick, Michael and Nancy.
Yeah, a pretty good size group but when you're surfing with friends (especially these folks) there is always sharing and respect....plus, there were plenty of good waves to go around.After about three hours they all paddled in leaving me by myself in the rising tide, and the getting more inconsistent sets. Sarges was crowded and uncrowded all morning long, with people coming and going. Dave paddled over from there and proceeded to rip down two of the best waves of the morning. (One of 'em is the sequence posted here.)
Waves were a lot like Monday with not as many getting through to the inside reefs, but the set waves were just a little finer with glassy conditions lasting the entirety of the session except for a brief bout with some southwest winds at around 0800.
Every time I started to head in, the combo swell would deliver a multi-wave set that had the wave of the day in it. But finally, after it got really inconsistent, I called it a day.
I chose to sit out yesterday for a couple reasons: I knew today was going to be really good weather; I was sore and achy from the cold water and fog; my back was hurting from fatigue and arthritis related muscle spasms; I was fighting off a cold that's going around. But I still worked out with the Bowflex and took a long walk with M and the dog. I also started with the arthritis meds after a 48-hour layoff to see what would happen. It wasn't good. But by this morning I was back in action and ready to rumble.
June 18, 2008 (W)
In: 0550
Out: 1020
AT= 46 - 70 degrees
WT= 52 degrees at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Clear and sunny
Tide: -0.7 Rising to 2.91
Wind: Calm to SW at 4 mph to Calm
Sea Surface: Glassy to light wind ripples to glassy
Buoy: NWS
0500: 2.6 feet @ 17.4 SSW
0600: 3.3 feet @ 17.4 WWW
0700: 4.3 feet @ 9.1 NW
0900: 3.0 feet @ 17.4 SSW
1000: 3.3 feet @ 17.4 SSW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with Bluecoil 5.5" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: 3.3 feet at 9 seconds from 310 degrees and 1.9 feet at 17 seconds from 200 degrees
Gary-
ReplyDeleteSuper cool sequence of Dave!
We've got some crankin' beach break surf- almost not-SUPable because it's sucking up so hard and BARRELLING!!! But I'm charging it anyway- getting ready for my mainland mexico trip in August.
We've also got severe June Gloom- so those sunny shots are killing me. It's been 100 degrees just a couple miles off the coast but just gloomy down at the beach. We couldn't even see the surf this morning. Looks like we've got more of that to come to.
Books about two weeks behind schedule- but it's basically there- not the perfect guide I'd like the first time but the bones are good and I can improve it with time.
Hope all is well and that my brother isn't snaking anyone anymore!
I think that may be the best sequence shots I've ever gotten with the Olympus. They came out nice so both Dave and I were stoked. Norcal and SoCal are playing hopscotch with the June Gloom. When you had some sun we had cold fog and the ever present cold water. It cleared up today and was drop dead gorgeous. Tomorrow is supposed to be more of the same as today. I can dig it.
ReplyDeleteRemember, I get one of the first autographed copies...don't forget...I want one.
We're trying hard to contain Mash. It's not easy. It's those chocolate croissants he has with his after session tea.
You guys suck. Those croissants are my fuel so I can keep surfing myself silly. And it ain't my fault if you keep dropping in behind me.
ReplyDeleteIt's good you like those choco-croissants. Because if you weren't powering down those high carb, high fat and sugar gut bombs you'd really be surfing circles around us old farts! XXXOOOXXX
ReplyDelete