G. Niblock on the L41 TipSUP Noserider. Photo: J. Chandler

Friday, June 20, 2008

South Backs Off A Little; Fire Weather

Thank God the wind wasn't up today. Record high temps and a series of arson fires along Highway 1 worked together to create a 1,000 acre vegetation fire (Trabing Fire)that so far has taken nine homes and burned them to the ground. We prepared for evac as our house is a scant two miles from the current evacuation area. But by night fall, firefighters had contained the spread of the wildland fire, and were working on taking out the hot spots and stucture fires that were still burning. For now we are standing down and breathing a little easier. Tomorrow will have high temps once again, but ground units are already in place, and both fixed wing and rotary aircraft have been ordered "early up" and will be on scene by 8AM. We'll pray for their continued success and be thankful for yet another courageous and heroic effort, the third major fire fight in four weeks.

Almost as an afterthought (although I must confess that I packed all my surf stuff and my SUP was ready for evac asap should we get the call) surf was a bit smaller today and very sectiony. I got two long rides and that was it in three and a half hours. I started at Yellow House and ended up at Stairways where I got a number of short, steep and fast walls. Again conditions were spectacular and warm. Water temps cold but warming.

MikieB was out on his new 10'7" Surftech Takayama (no pad, therefore the booties and very light wax coat). And for those who don't believe I actually exist, Jamie provides the proof. Also included, photographic evidence that this was yet another beautiful morning in God's creation.

Forecast is for a new south swell this afternoon/evening. That forecast swell appears to be filling in now, and I'm planning a dawn patrol surf before the Jay Race in the morning.
June 20, 2008 (F)
In: 0530
Out: 0815
AT= 58.4 - 72.8 degrees
WT= 54 degrees at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Clear and sunny with high wispy coulds
Tide: -0.27 Falling to -0.70, Rising to -0.21
Wind: Offshore 1 - 4 mph
Sea Surface: Glassy to light wind ripples
Buoy: NWS
0500: 3.3 feet @ 16 SSW
0600: 3.6 feet @ 14.8 S
0700: 3.6 feet @ 14.8 SSW
0800: 3.3 feet @ 16 S
0900: 3.6 feet @ 14.8 SSW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with Bluecoil 5.5" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: (0600 hours) 0.8 feet at 9 seconds from 310 degrees and 2.8 feet at 17 seconds from 180 degrees


  1. We were planning to head out to Mt. Madonna for a weekend camping trip tonight, be decided to wait until morning, which will hopefully find the fire crews getting the upper hand on things, and the highway reopened.

    I drove down 1 from SF this afternoon, and the swell size improved as I headed south. Clean, glassy conditions from Pacifica to Pigeon Point in the late afternoon, but a lot more size from Waddell on south. They are thumping at the end of my street as I write this. Just at sunset, the wind shifted an a lot of cool air moved in. I hope that helps with the fires.

  2. Gary- glad you were safe.

    If that was a little more south that hit this morning down here... then you better get ready- it went off in a BIG way.

    We're talking long line, rifling, 6 - 8' foot faces absolutely lighting up our town. People were claiming it's the best it's been in five years!

    I saw more guys score clean in-and-out barrels today then I've ever seen- and I got absolutely throated on a meaty grinder that had me shaking with adrenaline when I pulled out of it. As they say down under, "Filth".

    If this is the little impulse you're talking about get ready- it's a good one!

    And, it finally cleared up and was about 80 on the beach and about 68 in the water- NICE!