Go Green! A Few Days of Waves

Updated Sunday Morning

I didn't have time after yesterday's SUP surf and then all the Saturday chores that needed doing to post the pics and data from the session. Long story short...after I got up and did the initial quick post (I wasn't planning to surf on Saturday), I talked myself into going out. The stats just looked too good, and it looked like it might be as good as it is going to get for the next week or so, especially from the wind swell.

Paddled out at Sarge's at 0930, bound for Prow Point. Surfed there alone for 45 minutes before Art joined me for another 45. Mostly knee/waist high and slow, but every once in a while a zippy little long wall would come through and take us from Prow to Apt. House Point, a good 100 yard ride.

After an hour and a half I was ready to head in for the day. Sarge's had the better waves and was looking good but on Saturday's (especially) I try and avoid the crowds and just make one less person in the line-up. So I headed to the Staircase Bowl off the main peak to catch a couple insiders before heading in. Waves were consistent and fun, the wind swell putting up solid waist to chest high sets of three to five waves each. Joanna was out and getting some nice rides. I got a decent sequence of her on the run...one eye on the surfer, the other eye on the incoming section.

I got four or five waves and decided to head over to Middles for one last wave. As I was paddling there a nice set loomed up on the horizon. I took the third of what looked like five and made a three or four paddle take-off into a soft head high peak that put up a lazy shoulder, perfect for casual climbing and dropping before forming up at the Staircase Bowl. I decided this one was makeable if I trimmed up right. So I make the adjustments and just screamed through the section. I was slotted just right, staying mini-seconds ahead of the falling lip in the power line. Near the end of the section the tail did a little jig but the fins held and I finished the ride way on the inside. Done for the day and what a great way to exit!

Did I say..."Life is Good!?"
June 5, 2008 (Th)
In: 0930
Out: 1145
AT= 58 to 59 degrees
WT= 51 degrees at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Sunny with clear to blue skies
Tide: -0.88 Rising to 1.27
Wind: SSE at 3-5 mph
Sea Surface: Mostly very light wind rippling
Buoy: NWS
0400: 11.8 feet @ 9.1 NW
0500: 10.5 feet @ 12.1 NW
0700: 12.1 feet @ 11.4 NW
0800: 12.1 feet @ 12.1 NW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with Bluecoil 5.5" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: 10.9 feet at 12 seconds from 325 degrees and .5 feet at 20 seconds from 175 degrees

First Post on Saturday Morning
The well forecast wind swell arrived early this morning putting up double size and period digits, and meeting the prognostications of the last few days. The Wave Watch III animation chart shows the wind swell hugging the Cali coast. This swell will probably hang around into the early work week. What the WW3 model didn't show (at least I couldn't see it) was the south swell that some are calling for. I'll just have to keep my eye on all the charts and websites and see if this southie is going to tip it's hand and/or make it in here.

Air and water temps are still chilly this season. Air this morning in C-Town was a crisp 43 degrees at first light, water is still down in the feet numbing low 50's, hitting the 50 degree mark early this morning. Mark Sponsler over at Stormsurf is watching ocean currents and temps warm up and is putting up a running commentary re the situation. Things might be changing from the current La Nina over to a warmer and more surf productive El Nino condition. Something to watch for periodically on the Pacific Forecast page.

Buoy: NWS
0400: 11.8 feet @ 9.1 NW
0500: 10.5 feet @ 12.1 NW
0700: 12.1 feet @ 11.4 NW
0800: 12.1 feet @ 12.1 NW