Whitty said during today's session that perhaps we've died and gone to heaven and just don't know it. Could be...This extraordinary south swell, combined with the exceptional weather is without doubt responsible for creating this paradisical appreciation.
Paddled out at 0545 for a five hour session in immaculate conditions. The south was still pulsing, the weather was well...paradisical. Surfed the usual down coast reefs with the usual suspects. Greg and Jamie joined me after a bit, Doc Nancy parked on Al's Reef. Mash, John, Whitty and Sam SUPed over later. And when they all left, Dave pulled in for a few.
Waves were pretty much like the immediately previous posts for this swell. The best rides were from Al's Reef to Los Arboles and beyond. Whitty couldn't leave. Every time he tried, he paddled into another wave of the day at Al's. It took him an hour to flee. Early on some mackers came through that put us out in the heavy kelp beds on take-off. Those would have been epic waves had it not been for the seaweed. Mostly waves were waist to chest high, with the best waves going head high or so.
Don't know how long this is going to last, but everyone agrees it is a totally classic swell and weather for this time of year. Data on the farshore buoy shows the wave size trending down. Nevertheless...Life is Good!
June 18, 2008 (W)
AT= 48 - 75 degrees
WT= 52/53 degrees at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Clear and sunny with some high, thin clouds
Tide: -0.65 Falling to a low of -0.73, then Rising to 2.52
Wind: Calm to light offshores to SW at 4 to 6 mph
Sea Surface: Glassy to light wind ripples
0600: 5.2 feet @ 16 SSW
0700: 4.3 feet @ 16 SW
1000: 3.6 feet @ 16 SSW
1100: 3.3 feet @ 16 SSW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with Bluecoil 5.5" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: (0800 hours)1.3 feet at 8 seconds from 305 degrees and 2.3 feet at 17 seconds from 205 degrees