G. Niblock on the L41 TipSUP Noserider. Photo: J. Chandler

Friday, June 27, 2008

Seasonal Wx; Small Surf; Smoke and Haze

Things today and yesterday are much the same as the last post. With hundreds of fires burning across the state, the smoke smell and haze is ever present. Temps are forecast to hit the 80's today and over the weekend, and then the inversion layer reinstates for next week and the Fourth of July. The NWS sat fog product shows vividly the marine layer and how it is affecting Cali. Here, there is thick fog at the beach. Winds have turned around from NW to SSW this morning and water temps are warming. NWS says we'll get drift smoke from the Indians and Basin fires burning in Ventana near Big Sur.

Since there is little in the way of surf, my primary cardio is walking the dog with M during the low tide mornings. Sometimes the fog even burns off. An interesting thing about the CDIP data display is how accurate the color coding is. It gives even more info than the numbers and the code it displays is usually right on for size, especially in the nooks and crannies.

Data at the buoys has been consistent with the StormSurf models. Farshore readings are 4-5 feet at 8-10 seconds NW and the nearshore the same but at 1 foot, 10 seconds. The nearshore buoy is showing the low energy SW swell (1 foot at 15 seconds) predicted to hit this weekend.

Jamie says south swells usually arrive a day or so sooner than forecast, and drop a day or so sooner than forecast, in other words, south swells are always a bit early. Models show something kicking up for Sunday/Monday now, perhaps into Tuesday.


  1. Sam and I had another one of those mystery sessions Thursday morning. I paddled out at 6:45 and Sam was already in the water. I could see him way up past Gdubs. There were tiny peelers at Sarge's, just the kind that will dump you in the kelp. I paddled up to Sam and watched him snag about 4 waves in a row. Stoked. When I got there he told me the rules: Take off is about here, hold on through the kelp and it smooths out and gets zippy inside. He was right on. We surfed there for about an hour and a half, snagging wave after wave. Some were coming in chest high. We both took several dunkings as the kelp put the brakes on, but overall we surfed some fun waves. Once again, I am amazed. I paddle out expecting nothing, and I paddle in stoked beyond belief. It happens too often to be a coincidence.

  2. Glad you and Sam bagged a few bro'. That's a good spot to get some nice peelers when no one else thinks there's ridable waves. I almost paddled out Thursday morning but opted to get a few other things done. Maybe dp tomorrow.