WNW Swell (What?!) Fills In

In what can only be called a very unusual circumstance, the NPAC (which we all thought was hibernating for the season) snorted and woke up for an instant this morning, delivering clean WNWesterly lines in initially foggy, then clear and clean conditions. (Something about the Madden-Julian oscillation. Read more here at your own risk.)

I was out for a four hour session starting at 0815. I skipped the dawn patrol in hopes that a low tide rising scenario would yield some good waves. I was right, but Sean and Joanna, who were surfing by themselves at first light, convinced me that the dp was right on too.

I jumped in, headed for Yellow House and a two-hour solo session (Jeff joined me at the end) which yielded a ton of waves across the pocket beach. I picked up a couple doubles and one screaming little wave from Prow Point to Apt. House Pt. that made my day there. But the waves were small, nothing bigger than chest high. At 1015 (.5 rising) it was over, and I headed to Sarge's to see what was up. Tide was still a little too low and it was sectioning at the stairway. Still though, there were a lot of good waves to be had. As the tide filled in, the winter looking swell started to show better and before long, long lines were forming up from the point to past the stairway and into Bare Butt Beach (for us paddle-powered types that is).

The crowd came and went. From 1030 to 1130 it got magic with six in the line-up. Sets of four to six waves were consistent and long rides were had by all. Mike from Visalia (a life long surfer) entered the zone and could not catch anything but the best of every wave in each set. It was one of those phenomenal things to watch him effortlessly be in the exact right spot for each set wave, in every set that came his way. I love it when that happens! And he was stoked...he let out a roar after one particularly super sweet wave that could be heard by every surfer's spirit that knows the joy of surf riding. It's what surfing is all about.

After four hours I had more than my fill. I got a lot of practice moving the Olohe all over the wave face...climbing, dropping, bottom turns, hitting the lip, another floater (which I made) and numerous opportunities to crash white water. So far, this year's surf season is one for the record books. Epic!

July 7, 2008 (M)
In: 0815
Out: 1215
AT= 55 - 66 degrees
WT= 54 degrees at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Overcast with heavy fog at times to clearing with foggy haze
Tide: -0.13 Rising to 2.51
Wind: Calm to SW at 4-6 mph
Sea Surface: Glassy to light to moderate wind ripples
Buoy: NWS
0800: 10.5 feet @ 12.1 WNW
0900: 10.5 feet @ 12.9 WNW
1100: 10.2 feet @ 11.4 WNW
1300: 11.2 feet @ 12.1 WNW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with Bluecoil 5.5" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: (1100 hours) 12.5 feet at 10 seconds from 330 degrees and 1.2 feet at 14 seconds from 190 degrees