Srfnff

Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Friday, July 18, 2008

Waiting....

If there wasn't much surf yesterday, there was even less today.

Paddled out at 0620 in a very low tide. Jamie was grabbing about the only things out there at Al's Reef so I joined him. Anyway, I wanted to say hello. He just returned from his trip to Ireland and I asked him to bring some surf home with him. He didn't. We caught a few together and did some catching up on his travels, then I headed out for a paddle up to the Point.

Swell data today was about the same as all week, background south swell and a weak NW wind driven swell, but barely anything was getting in this morning. The kelp was thick, worse than all week, especially without any water to float it. If you could find a clear spot to take off, the run was through an impossible obastacle course of kelp stalks and blades. In spite of all that I managed to get a few at every spot along the way. There was even an eight or nine wave set at Scimi's which put up some good walls. But that was very sporadic. A shortboarder who had been out since day break commented that a set like that happened about ever 30 0r 40 minutes.

Air temps were colder this morning, around 55 degrees as opposed to the high 50's all this week. Water temps were lower (57/58) too but seemed warmer because the air was colder.

Everyone is waiting for the forecast south swell to take us out of the wave drought. I remain skeptical and am convinced we won't see anything like the second half of June souths. But like Barry and Joanna said, we'll have to take what we can get. Somebody say "Amen!"

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