The second fetch New Zealand swell that blew up in late August began to make landfall yesterday evening before driving home steady numbers on the farshore buoy from 11PM to present. Basically we're looking at 5 feet at 17 seconds from the SW/SSW.
I paddled out this morning practically in the dark. Out at 0620 in abysmally overcast conditions with a light to moderate straight onshore blowing. Miraculously, it wasn't too crumbly. Tides were lethargic in the three foot range from first light to late afternoon when it got even higher. True to form, the south swell was inconsistent. I surfed by myself for the first 45 minutes, picking off two or three nice head high to overhead set waves in real ground swell energy before I had to get out to prep for my EMT class.
There was a lot of backwash from the cliffs which always makes for some interesting take-offs on the stand up. Getting knocked sideways while you're digging to make the drop is always a challenging balancing act. Today must have been ladies day. Joanna paddled out with a friend around 7AM, followed by a few more ladies. Then John and Sam came out on their SUPs, along with Barry. The smaller waves were mushy and it was definitely the best choice to wait around for the sets.
Take-offs were a bit further down the line, as befitting a south swell, and the best sets were putting up some nice walls across the nudie beach and beyond. In looking up coast, GDubs had a couple awesome sets, with long lines and steep faces making for those racy walls that we love about that place. But Sarges was good too, and although a bit smaller, was just as consistent and lined up as GDubs.
This swell should stick around for a couple more days. No use lamenting about the conditions...it is what it is. But it sure would have been nice to have this swell in the water last week.
Sept 8, 2008 (M)
AT= 55.1F to 54.8F
WT= 60.4F at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Heavy overcast
Tide: 3.0 Rising
Wind: S/SE 1 to 4mph
Sea Surface: Onshore wind mottling with multi-directional backwash bump
0600: 5.2 feet @ 17.4 S
0700: 5.2 feet @ 17.4 SSW
0800: 5.6 feet @ 16 SSW
0900: 5.6 feet @ 16 SW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: (1100 hours) 3.3 feet at 9 seconds from 330 degrees and 3.0 feet at 17 seconds from 225 degrees