Moment of Remembrance to honor the brave brothers who died in the Towers. May they rest in peace, forever remembered as the warrior heroes they were. They died in the highest calling, helping their fellow man. The Seventh Year After The Fall.
The south swell began fading today, but in combo with the existing NW wind swell, still put up some fine waves this morning. I paddled out at oh-dark-thirty and still didn't beat Joanna and Sean into the line-up. I could barely see as I paddled over the incoming rollers. They must take off their night vision goggles as soon as they see me coming.
Tide wasn't has high as yesterday, and it was pretty consistent at Sarges for the first 20 minutes or so. I caught a couple of small ones (waist high) that put up an unmakeable section inside. Joanna had priority for the next wave, an outside beauty, but she was too far inside to make it. She called me onto the wave and it was my best ride of the morning at Sarges. Thanks Jo!
A couple more longboarders paddled out so I thought I'd decrease the crowd a bit, and paddled over to Yellow House. Because the surf was smaller, only one multi-wave, head high set rolled through in the 1.5 hours I was there. But the Prow Bowl into YH Bowl was working even better. Although the rides were short, they were fast, steep and adrenaline intensive.
Mash and MikieB paddled out after a while. Good to see Mashie back in the line-up after his unfortunate accident in the beach break. He looks good and got some nice ones, but is taking it easy. He wasn't out for too long.
The tide swamped things, and without the big sets booming in, I got impatient waiting around. So I paddled up coast to Sarges. One longboarder out. We traded waves for about 20 minutes when he called it a day and paddled in. Out came Whitty on his SUP, followed shortly by John and Sam. So it was nothin' but SUPs for my last hour.
Surf seemed to pick up a bit, waves got a bit bigger and quality was good. Still inconsistent though. But overall, another very good session. Less bump and an early offshore wind made conditions in the gray overcast pretty good. SW wind came up about 9, but didn't mess anything up. One cool thing about more water moving through a higher tide is that the kelp has been neutralized. Take that, you tentacled demon veggies!
Sept 11, 2008 (Th)
AT= 52.3F to 55.4F
WT= 60F at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Continuing overcast
Tide: 2.5 Rising to 3.9
Wind: Calm to light offshore
Sea Surface: Mostly glassy with some light backwash bump
0500: 5.6 feet @ 13.8 S
0700: 5.6 feet @ 10.8 WNW
0800: 5.6 feet @ 10.8 NW
1000: 5.6 feet @ 10.8 WNW
1100: 5.6 feet @ 16 S
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: (0800 hours) 3.9 feet at 10 seconds from 325 degrees and 3.1 feet at 14 seconds from 185 degrees