Fall rolled in with a sweet September sunrise and the promise of some preternaturally unparalleled days and nights. The sun peaked over the hills, never blinking at the cloudless sky and shimmering seas. Light offshores placed a friction generated layer of frosting that chattered under my board like the sound of children playing in a far off playground, light and soft. The hazy, orange glow of creation, born of freshness, was found everywhere from the faces of the cliffs, to the faces of those few people fortunate enough to witness creationism in action, each day, created new. Life is short, enjoy it.
OK, enough of me trying to write what it felt like this morning. Life is good! Enough said. Into the sea at 0640 and heading to the point, in general. No specific goals, no real ground swell in the water, wind swell weak and sloppy, no plans of even surfing if that's the way it was going to be. Of course it wasn't. Scimi's was deserted, but it's never so small that there isn't something. Hooked into a half dozen little right hand peelers in the stone silence of this holy day (aren't they all) before a couple longboarders decided that it actually could be surfed. When they paddled out, I left. Have fun amigos, I'm gone up coast.
Paddled, hugging coastline the whole way, to past the point and into the 20-something avenues, enjoying the paddle, checking the sites and harassing the seals. Didn't really mean to harass 'em, they were just there and felt like being harassed. Got some great fitness and balancing exercise standing in the playful chop, backwash and friendly swells 15 feet from shore, taking pics. Each paddle stroke a mini-crunch, each side-to-side wobble, a glut/hamstring/quad rep. A couple hundred (or is it thousand) per session.
Met up with Andy on my inbound leg, he on his outbound leg. Surfed Scimi's together for a while before he headed west, and I headed east, back to the rising sun. Talked with Sam as I was getting out of the water, he getting into the water. "Hey, I'm going to pull my trailer down to the cliffs, bring the grand kids," says he, in that effervescent joyful way he has about him. Always good to see Sammy coming.
Included a bunch of pics this morning, mainly for NC Paddle Surfer, who has never visited here before. Hope you like the additional pics Dwight. Come visit someday, we'll get you and that little C4 ripper into some Cali stand up reef juice.
The NWS has us down for a couple more days of this, and that's good with me. I'll be out 'til I drop or the fog comes in, but at this point....who cares, I'm too busy being loved up by mama nature.
Sept 23, 2008 (Tu)
AT= 51.2F to 59.2F (The point PWS)
WT= 59F at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Clear and sunny, light hazy clouds on the horizon
Tide: 3.8 Rising to 3.7 Falling
Wind: Calm to offshore at 2mph.
Sea Surface: Some backwash bump mixing in with light wind ripples, smooth in the kelp
Buoy: NWS (sporadic data)
0600: 6.2 feet @ 7.7 WNW
0700: 6.9 feet @ 9.1 WNW
1100: 6.2 feet @ 8.3 NW
1200: 6.2 feet @ 9.1 WNW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: (0700 hours) 5.4 feet at 9 seconds from 315 degrees and .9 feet at 12 seconds from 185 degrees