Another incredible sunrise this morning, followed by one of the warmest days of the last few weeks. The small and somewhat weak wind swell spawned by the storm that waded across the NPAC in almost a due east beeline, peaked today but was unfavorably influenced by the higher daytime tides.
I paddled out his morning at 0627 and right over to GDubs. I surfed there alone for about 20 minutes in very weak waves that weren't really doing much of anything. I was hoping for better. Priscilla paddled out, followed by Michael, then Keith, Tim, Steve, Andy, Chris...everyone made the scene it. Around 0745 the surf seemed to pick up, we started getting some decent sets that put up some nice walls on the inside reefs, and everyone got waves. Then it just went calm. Surfed some small ones, a few folks called it a morning and by 0900 I was heading back to the take-out.
On the way in, I tweaked my lower back stepping off my SUP into a surgy shorey. No big deal really, just got twisted up the wrong way. Fortunately, I had my bimonthly sports massage therapy appointment and chiropractor's visit scheduled for today so by the evening I was feeling pretty good.
I checked it in the afternoon at low tide and it looked much better. The waves liked the lower tides and were showing it.
Work all day tomorrow. Surf is fading. Not much coming for a while.
Sept 26, 2008 (F)
AT= 54F to 62F
WT= 60.5F at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Clear and sunny with low fog in the distance
Tide: 2.64 Rising to 4.7
Sea Surface: Smooth and glassy with some backwash bump
0400: 6.9 feet @ 11.4 WNW
0700: 7.5 feet @ 11.4 WNW
1100: 8.2 feet @ 10.8 WNW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: (0800 hours) 6.8 feet at 12 seconds from 320 degrees and 0.9 feet at 17 seconds from 185 degrees