Srfnff

Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Sunday, September 14, 2008

Ground Swell/Wind Swell Remnants

Paddled out dawn patrol before church to get some exercise and ride a few small remnants of the now almost completely gone swell of last week. The combo SW ground/NW wind swell had a pretty good run before dying of natural causes, feeding us decent waves for almost a week.

This incessant morning overcast seems interminable. It was too dark to paddle out when I hit the sand and started my warm-up exercises and stretches. By the time I was done, it was almost light enough to see any incoming waves, but I waited around, killing time. At 0627 I hit the water and began paddling through Sarges, enroute to GDubs and the spots up coast.

After surfing last weeks sessions in higher water, the 1.5 low tide brought the kelp reality back home. No...the swell did not tear out large quantities of kelp. So, I paddled through 100 foot sections of thick kelp that continually stopped my forward progress. At times instead pulling my paddle through water, I was pushing it off the tops of thick clumps of kelp forest, keel boat style. Life's about trade-offs. Last week it was higher tides and backwash bump, this week it's low tides and kelp. Waves make a difference though, the bigger the better. Bigger waves bring larger volumes of water which float you over the kelp during lower tides. Higher tides present other problems when you get big surf. But, I'll take the waves thanks, any day.

A light offshore was at my back on the way to the point. I passed Scimi's, it wasn't looking good. The only peak working even slightly was first. Everything else was closing out. So I paddled up to the point and snagged quite a few small waves at the second bowl. Not too crowded for a Sunday morning. Rode there until 0730, then headed back for the take out at Sarges. Distance wise, the paddle is a nice comfortable, aerobic two-mile round trip. Just right for a short morning workout when combined with a wave catching anaerobic workout. Fun too, and that can't be beat.

On the way home the northerly offshore wind intensified, making for a more strenuous upwind paddle. I found the lee of the point at Scimi's, and then tucked into the lee of the point at Sarges. Not completely windless, but a major improvement.

Overall not a great surf session, but fun, and an almost perfect, early morning Sunday workout.
Sept 14, 2008 (Su)
In: 0627
Out: 0800
AT= 53.9F to 53.6F
WT= 60.4F at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Continuing overcast
Tide: 1.5 Rising to 3.1
Wind: Offshore 1-5mph
Sea Surface: Light offshore wind rippling
Buoy: NWS
0600: 3.6 feet @ 10 WNW
0700: 3.6 feet @ 12.9 S
0800: 3.3 feet @ 12.9 SSW
0900: 3.3 feet @ 12.9 S
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: (0800 hours) 2.6 feet at 9 seconds from 315 degrees and 2 feet at 14 seconds from 195 degrees

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