The Pacific Ocean lived up to it's name this morning...peaceful, mild, and calm. There was even less surf than yesterday, which was OK with me, I still got three or four waves where there weren't any waves.
I waited a bit longer than usual to paddle out since there was no surf, launching into another warm and delicious morning at 0650 and taking the stand up tour for two and a half hours before I leisurely stepped off my SUP and into ankle deep water at the sand's edge. For those who don't stand up, a morning like today can be disappointing. No surf to ride, especially for shortboarders. But for stand up paddle surfers a day like today is just as satisfying, and a joyous "break" from surfing, just to paddle, sight see and enjoy the glories of the natural world into which we have been born, and by which we have been so gifted.
Again and even more so, I was able to hug the shoreline up coast and down because of the lack of swell and breaking waves. It is difficult to convey just how peaceful and meditative walking on water can be. No reason to be in a hurry. You just might miss something. One thing I heard today that my ears never picked up before, was the sound of the tires on pavement as the cars rolled down Guinness Street on the long, slowly descending straightaway into Chapeauville. Because the ever present din of breaking surf was absent, I finally heard it, standing silent on my board at the base of the 80- foot cliff that edges the roadway. It wasn't an intrusive sound, just a faint echo in the distance overhead. A welcome lonely sound really, underscoring the fact that tourist season is over and only we locals are here to enjoy a very special place.
I almost didn't take the second two mile trip from Sarges to NB's. But I was beguiled and seduced by the beauty of the day, the sea surface and the warmth of the sun. I didn't want it to end. At the take-out John was getting ready for his paddle. We never fail to exchange enthusiasm, it's hard to contain good times to oneself. Maybe one more day of this, maybe two. I work tomorrow so I'll miss the dp. Sigh...
Sept 24, 2008 (W)
AT= 51.7F to 62.6F
WT= 58.8F at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Light morning clouds clearing to full sun
Tide: 3.78 Rising to 3.93 Falling
Wind: Calm to light offshore, to light southwesterly
Sea Surface: Smooth and glassy with some backwash bump
0600: 4.3 feet @ 9.1 WNW
0700: 3.9 feet @ 7.7 WNW
0800: 3.6 feet @ 7.1 WNW
0900: 3.9 feet @ 8.3 WNW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: (0800 hours) 1.9 feet at 9 seconds from 320 degrees and 1.0 feet at 20 seconds from 165 degrees