Transitions - New South Swells Filling In

I launched out of NB's this morning at 0930, really looking forward to a long, peaceful paddle up to the point and back again. My fearless forecasting predicted that none of the south swells currently lurking through our waters would get into the bay...swell angle too steep thinks I. Wrong again.

As I paddled up coast in another drowsy and warm, no-wind, fresh light morning, I look up to see a five wave set pouring through Chapeauville. Not only that, a down coast reef that doesn't break unless there's swell, is putting up waves for a gaggle of beginners and their coach. OMG, says I to self, the south IS getting in.

Now get this, instead of feeling that, "Hey there's waves!" elation that one usually registers, I was sort of disappointed. Disappointed that my calm and peaceful stroll on the water would be interrupted by surf. Having to paddle for waves, jockey for position, hassle with the crowd, maybe get wet, feel excited and anxious. Can you believe it? I can't. I'm just looking forward to a casual, meditation in the near shore wilderness. Now I've got adrenalin to deal with!

Which brings me to transitions. They are a lot about what life is all about. Change and transition. Like Dylan says..."those not busy being born (changing) are busy dying (stagnating, rotting, becoming a fossil)." So I find myself slowing getting into the joy of paddling, in addition (and sometimes instead of) the joy of surfing. How could I have know a year ago, that I would be as stoked by paddling from line-up to line-up, as I would be by riding the next wave in the line-up? How could I have know that I would be as stoked by going for a paddle along the coast, as I would be by paddling out into a clear morning sunrise to ride clean chest high surf? There's no choice. There's no one side, or the other. There's no this, or that. There is only both, each in their own time; each complementing the other. A contiguous, yet separate whole. Cool...

OK SpaceMan, back to reality. For the second time this week I paddled without the wetsuit, and was just in boardshorts, rashie and ball cap. I snapped pics at the point and GDubs. Caught a nice set wave at Tres 8's after wondering why everyone was sitting out so far. Ran into my firefightin' bro Scott at the point and caught up on a few things. Scott's a good man, dependable, always there for ya. Can't beat that in a friend, or a firefighter, especially a firefighter.

The southwest wind was freshening as I headed back to NB's on the down wind run. I paddled through Yellow House and found Eric and his buddy, out for a paddle. Eric did a great job applying the Clear Grip to the nose of his Olohe...very custom. Eric's buddy was out on his new Surftech Takayama 11-footer and experiencing the rap on that board first hand. Surfs good, but pretty tippy. (Which is usually the trade-off you make in a stand up board. You give up stability for surfability and vice versa.)

Lot's of backwash coming off the Yellow House cliffs in the rising tide, making for a bumpy ride and paddle past the pier. Caught a set wave at Chapeauville Main and another at inside Newbies before coming ashore in almost dead flat water back at NB's. A great five mile, two and a half hour paddle, in pristine Indian Summer conditions.
Sept 5, 2008 (F)
In: 0930
Out: 1230
AT= 69.4F to 80.3F
WT= 58F at the nearshore buoy
Wx: Indian Summer, clear and warm
Tide: 2.5 Rising to 4.3
Wind: Light SW freshening
Sea Surface: Smooth with some areas of light wind mottling and increasing backwash bump
Buoy: NWS
1000: 6.6 feet @ 10.8 NW
1100: 5.9 feet @ 14.8 S
1200: 6.2 feet @ 14.8 S
1300: 5.9 feet @ 13.8 S
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity Ottertail paddle
Fin set-up: Thruster with K2D2 4.75" center fin and FCS Occy sides
Bathymetry: Rock reefs
CDIP: (1100 hours) 6 feet at 10 seconds from 320 degrees and 2.8 feet at 14 seconds from 170 degrees