I Missed It!

(...that is if you want to call surfing in mega giganticus bay bound close-outs while getting your St. Francis of ASSisi kicked...missing it...) But truthfully, along with the pounding everyone took at least once during the last 24-hours, there were moments of pure exhilaration and rides across the wave strewn playing field of over a 1/4 mile.

Here's what Vince told me: "I tried out my old bones yesterday at (Sarge's) in huge surf. Got one smooth long ride almost to Los Arboles and another shorter close out one into point. And feeling all confident (already forgetting the minor thrashing I took just paddling out) I proceeded to paddle back out and thought I was sitting safely outside until I got thrashed by a huge outside set that truly challenged my ability to hold my breath. My whole wetsuit filled up after being submerged and tumbled by 7-8 waves. But I survived without any new aches or pains and after one more smaller wave that had a hard inside closeout I decided to come in and act my age (or at least in line with my prematurely arthritically impaired low back and shoulder).

Hah, no one who surfs can act their age...forever young is what we are, or at least want to be until the day we die.

The swell dropped off dramatically today. I had projects to do, but I thought these big waves were going to last at least through Sunday. Don't get me wrong, the swell is still putting up respectable numbers, but nothing like yesterday, and earlier this morning, except that only the high tide spots were working this morning.

I paddled out in the mid-afternoon and surfed until dusk. Waves were consistent but somewhat flawed by the prevailing southwesterlies which blew until dark. Sets were still coming in which just underscored the fact that we're getting spoiled! The waves weren't as "perfect" as I wanted them to be but fact is, I got a ton of waves in fair conditions...once again.

Sam was out making some solid bottom turns on his Angulo 10'8" and throwing some nice cutbacks. Hard to do on such a big board. He seems to have using the paddle to turn back well in hand. MikeyB was out in trunks and a rash guard, mostly cruising but getting a few waves here and there. Somebody was ripping on a SUP at Sarge's, pretty sure it was Surftech John. He moves his SUP around like a 9' performance longboard.
February 16, 2008 (Sa)
In: 1515
Out: 1715
AT= 60 to 55 degrees
WT= 52.7 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Clear and sunny
Tide: .37 Rising to 2.05
Wind: WSW 1 to 14 mph
Sea Surface: Moderately bumpy with wind ripples
Buoy: NWS
1400: 10.2 feet @ 17.4 Seconds WNW
1500: 9.5 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
1600: 9.2 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
1700: 9.8 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 7.5 feet at 15 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model