Srfnff

Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

More Surprises...New SW Swell

If I was surprised by good waves and conditions yesterday, I was even more surprised to find a long period southerly swell in the water this morning when I checked the buoys. This one passed by the buoy starting at 10PM last night. Sometimes this data is aberrational but I cross-checked it with StormSurf and their late yesterday update included the new swell. I wasn't the only one asleep at the switch because when I arrived on scene early this morning, no one was in the water at the reefs or at Sarge's. I was stunned...but in a good way.

I surfed for an hour fifteen alone in waist to head high waves that were consistent. The good south sets had six to eight waves each. The west sets less. South pulses were breaking across the coves and pocket beaches, yielding shorter rides but bigger waves. The west sets had less waves per set and lined up a bit better, but overall, it was all good.

Surfed with Jamie for a half hour after he paddled back from GDubs. After a couple hours a whole bunch of stand up guys came out so I moved over to Yellow House and surfed there with the Doc for an hour before people started wising up and paddling out to join us. It wasn't lined up a well as several other times this winter, but it wasn't uncommon to ride from Yellow House Point to past AptHouse Point. And then pick up another peak at AptHouse Point and ride past Dick's. Total of the two rides...about 400 hundred yards.

At the high tide mark things slowed noticeably. By then I had already had a cornucopia of very good waves, so I surfed a couple peaks back to the pier and called it a morning. A good morning it was.

Didn't get a lot of pics today because I was either surfing by myself, or on the wave merry-go-round and paddling hard to get back out without being caught inside.
February 27, 2008 (W)
In: 0659
Out: 0905
AT= 45 - 55 degrees
WT= 52.7 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Clear with building high level thin cloud cover
Tide: 1.68 Falling to 1.14 (low tide)
Wind: Calm to N/NE to SE at 2 mph
Sea Surface: Light and gentle roll with some low tide side chop, light wind dappling to glassy
Buoy: NWS
0600: 4.3 feet @ 17.4 Seconds SW
0700: 4.3 feet @ 17.4 Seconds SSW
0800: 4.6 feet @ 17.4 Seconds SSW
0900: 3.9 feet @ 17.4 Seconds WSW
1000: 3.3 feet @ 17.4 Seconds SW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 2.5 feet at 16 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model

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