Srfnff

Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Thursday, February 28, 2008

South Fades; West Picks up

The third surprise in this three day surprise trilogy is how sore I was this morning when I got up. I guess I had too much to surf yesterday. Stiff neck, knee and back ache, arthritis kickin' up. Have to take today off and recover. Too bad because it's going to be good. (West swell, 9' at 16 seconds, light offshores, shallow fog layer trying to penetrate the bay but should burn off early leading to clear skies with warm temps.) Can't be greedy though, I've had way more than I should these last two days. Will get down to the beach for a few pics.

Later that same day...Nice swell kept things booming and the boyz and girls busy. Andy and Mash were out on their stand ups, Jamie and Steve surfed some bombs, Al paddled out and into some fun ones. But overall, hardly anyone out for how big and good it was today.

This is how it will eventually go when I get too old for surfing. I get to be the staff photographer. Better than nothing.

Mash had some really fun waves on his 10' Tim Stamps Performer Model. One is captured in the sequence below.










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