Winter Swell; Summer Weather

While the west swell is dropping, it keeps providing ridable waves. Too bad the weather isn't as cooperative. A summer weather pattern, common to this area, is in effect. The valley heats up drawing cooler, fog laden, moist marine air in to the land. Along with the fog are onshore winds which generally make a mess out of the surf. Conditions today were poor with ESE winds making a washboard out of the sea surface, and blowing whitecaps into the wave crests. the fog sat a couple miles offshore all day, and by 5PM it moved in to smother the land.

The crowd factor was just about zero though. Most of the session was just Michael and me. Glad he was out so I could document the waves with him on them.

For about 20 minutes the wind died down, and that was when we got our best waves...a couple long rights almost to DP's. But other than that I struggled just to stay on my board when trying to turn into the wind to catch the waves. I didn't always succeed and took a couple unceremonious dunkings as I was pitched off the board by the wind driven side chop and the cresting, oncoming wave.

Such is life...I was glad to get a surf in today...it will have to last until next Tuesday.
February 29, 2008 (F)
In: 1145
Out: 1330
AT= 57 - 58 degrees
WT= 53.2 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Clear with a big fog bank offshore
Tide: .91 Rising to 1.43
Wind: 4 to 12 mph ESE
Sea Surface: Washboard with light white capping
Buoy: NWS
1100: 6.9 feet @ 12.9 Seconds WNW
1200: 7.5 feet @ 12.1 Seconds WNW
1300: 7.5 feet @ 12.9 Seconds WNW
1400: 7.2 feet @ 11.4 Seconds WNW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 4 feet at 13 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model