Srfnff

Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Thursday, February 21, 2008

A Quick Sesh Before the Deluge

I was hoping that a window between the coming storms and the southerly winds would open briefly this morning. Yesterday's wind swell was putting up some decent size but accompanied by incessant southwesterlies that were putting light white caps across the ocean surface.

When I checked the buoy and local weather at the point, the swell was still up and wind was calm. I thought I had a chance for a brief paddle surf in halfway decent conditions. Wrong.

I should have checked the wind at the farshore buoy. I would have seen that it had been blowing all night long from the SSE at from 2 to 18 mph. When I rounded the curve at NB's the sea surface looked manageable. But when I got to Sarge's it was marginal at best. I knew this would be my last chance for a few days though so I launched and struggled through the ultra bumpy sea and side chop. It was hard enough just to stand and paddle, but I somehow managed to grab a few waves. Primary challenge was to keep the flat rockered Olohe nose above water and not plow into the multiple troughs that pock marked the wave face on takeoff. Once I paddled into the wave it was better, but not much.

After a couple waves the wind increased again and I took my third one in. In only a half hour OMO had worn me out.

The OPC surface analysis map shows a fairly powerful storm sitting offshore ready to deliver high winds and heavy sporadic rain to our area. Forecast is for most of the wind to stay offshore but advisories will probably be issued anyway.
February 21, 2008 (Th)
In: 0654
Out: 0725
AT= 48 degrees
WT= 52 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Broken cloud cover with storm clouds moving in
Tide: 3.15 Rising to 3.8
Wind: E to SE 2 to 6 mph
Sea Surface: Confused with wavelets from multiple directions, light white capping
Buoy: NWS
0600: 8.2 feet @ 12.9 Seconds WNW
0700: 8.2 feet @ 13.8 Seconds WNW
0800: 7.2 feet @ 12.1 Seconds WNW
0900: 7.2 feet @ 13.8 Seconds W
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 5 feet at 13 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model

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