G. Niblock on the L41 TipSUP Noserider. Photo: J. Chandler

Sunday, November 18, 2007


The swell jumped to double digits Saturday morning at 4AM. It has stayed at WNW except for a few blips of NW. On average it looks about 11'@14 seconds, big and raw, moving lots of water. Fog was heavy early, to burning off around 10 or 11AM. On Sunday dense "pea soup" type fog hugged the coast all day long, while conditions one quarter to half mile inland was cloudless blue skies.

I didn't SUP or surf as I usually save Saturday for chores, Sunday is church and church prep. I also usually don't surf on the weekends as it's a little more crowded and it gives me some recovery time. I had lots of chores Saturday and then M and I celebrated our anniversaries with Stephen and Leah and took in a one-act local play in town.

I'm fighting off, again, the sinus infection I had last week. Started a second course of antibiotics. What with the wave size and ocean conditions some wipeouts are almost assured and that inevitably would lead to a sinus douching or two with water that is still contaminated with the red tide and it's concomitant bacteria.

Andy left the westside for a spot further south and got some fun longboard waves with about five other guys who were into sharing and the aloha spirit. He said it was a mellow and fun session. Good for him. He works long hours all week long, and a cleansing surf was satisfying and well deserved. Too bad there hasn't been any rain to wash the necessary sand into Beginners. If there was it would be outrageous fun with 200-300 yard rides to the inside.

I should be back in the water by Tuesday. Monday is a long day over the hill starting with negotiations in the morning and finishing with labor/management in the afternoon.

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