South Swell in November

Our Fall season has been blessed with yet another beautiful swell. The south swell forerunners which we experienced yesterday have given way to a full blown south swell. While the weather is definitely not summer-like, the waves are definitely to our liking.

Interestingly, the nearshore buoy is not picking up this swell, while 42 is ringing like a bell. Often the nearshore buoy will be more accurate on the west, northwest or northerly swell. I reckon this is due to swell angle more than anything else.

The only negative about this morning's session was the high tide. At paddle out the tide was five feet and rising. I SUPed for two hours and there was no significant change in the tide. This caused some major backwash off the cliff faces and put some bumps on the sea surface as well as on some of the waves faces. But those were the minority of the waves that came through. Generally, the surfing was outrageous, consistent and uncrowded. I surfed for as long as I could before the Indo Board like conditions just noodled out my thighs from the constant balancing. Even so, I stopped counting after 20 waves.

I surfed with MikeyB, Greg, Jersey John, Paul and Tony, but not all at the same time. A few others circulated in and out. Scimitars was also pumping and the majority of the folks surfed there, where the waves were a bit more plentiful and bigger...also of course, more crowded. Missed Mash (stayed up late working) and Andy (a little under the weather with a cold) but looking forward to seeing them early tomorrow AM for another go at it before the swell fades.
November 6, 2007 (Tu)
In: 0655
1st Wave: 0703
Out: 0900
Wave count: 20+
AT=54
WT=60
Wx: Heavy high fog and overcast
Tide: 4.9 Rising 5.2 then Falling to 4.7
Wind: Glassy to light northeasterlies
Sea Surface: Smooth to wind mottled with lots of backwash bump
Buoy: NWS
0700: 4.3 @ 21.1 S
0900: 4.9 @ 19 S
1000: 4.6 @ 19 S
1100: 4.9 @ 19 S
10'4" Angulo SUP
Rock reefs
Waves: 5' @ 19 (approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model