Srfnff

Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Monday, November 5, 2007

Surprise! Southern Hemi Forerunners









I took my time getting in the water this morning for two reasons: 1) all the forecasters were predicting a pretty drastic drop in the swell and 2) the tide was high at 0730 and I wanted it to drop some so there would be something to ride. No one was out at Sarge's except Sam when I paddled out and I fully intended to paddle down to GW's when the first nice set of my session came through. After a relatively soft takeoff the inside section jacked all the way across the cove delivering a sweet and fast wall into a cutback section to a short reform on the inside. Sweet! Surprised by the Gifts of the Sea again.

As expected, yesterday's fog was in full effect. The NWS predicts it to stick around until the Rex block pattern is over. Therefore I'm gearing up for foggy, chilly surfs from cloud shrouded sunrises through the fog bound sunsets. When it gets like this I feel like one of the ice cubes in a pitcher of iced tea. I admit it...I'm whining, a whiner, a wimp. Is it time for my 5/3 yet? And with Cookie out there in boardshorts and rashguard, it's downright embarrassing to be such a mewling lightweight. But hey, he's a world class athlete with skills...I'm a retired fireman with a bad back. Plus, I know how to cool off...it's the staying warm I'm not good at!

I surfed with Sam (who just started SUPing) for about 40 minutes before he wore out and paddled in. Then I surfed by myself for half hour before Dave and Gustav joined me. Then after a while Chris and Dominic paddled up from BatRay's. GW's was pretty much going off with some solid four to five waves sets which started to peak up at Tweeners as the tide dropped. Sarge's was much less consistent and the waves were generally smaller but still delivered shoulder to head high waves on the bigger sets (which were few and far between). Still, everyone got plenty of waves, and everyone got at least one memorable ride across the inside section.
November 5, 2007 (M)
In: 0925
1st Wave: 0934
Out: 1200
Wave count: 15+
AT=54
WT=60
Wx: Heavy fog and overcast
Tide: 4.1 Falling to 1.8
Wind: Glassy to light NWrly
Sea Surface: Smooth to wind mottled
Buoy: NWS
0900: 4.9 @ 12.9 WNW
1000: 5.2 @ 12.1 NW
1100: 5.2 @ 10.8 NW
1200: 4.9 @ 12.1 WNW
1300: 4.9 @ 16 SSW
10'4" Angulo SUP
Rock reefs
Waves: 3' @ 14 (approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model

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