Even the newspaper picked up on the surf forecasters predictions of another big swell on the way and set to arrive around Christmas day. The original hoopla was trumpeted by the surf prognosticators and then toned down as the models didn't quite deliver what the storms were actually doing.
The NOAA sat-pic shows two wave makers out there though and we should have some Christmas goodies from Ma Nature in our collective neoprene stockings just as if Santa's fictional sleigh had dropped in at the mile buoy. The far away northerly buoys are showing some sporadic swell in the 16 to 20 second period range which started about 9PM last night (12-22-2007). We may see some of those forerunners this morning. (Interesting to note is that Buoy 46004 Middle Nomad CAN is currently showing 41' at 16 seconds with winds from WSW at about 50 mph.) Note also the buoy location in relation to the storm and the direction the wind vanes are pointing...aimed well into our swell window.
Weather looks good too so conditions when the swell makes landfall ought to be righteous. High tides in the morning (as is the winter tidal pattern) may fatten the combers but there should be sweetness for all this holiday season.
Updates forthcoming...Forerunners arrived at the farshore buoy at noon (6.6' @ 17.4 WNW) and 1PM (5.9' @ 17.4 WNW) delivering chest to shoulder high waves at the best spots.
Updates forthcoming...
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