Thursday, December 6, 2007
The Rain Falls on the Good and Bad Alike
Peter Davi - RIP 12-4-2007
From Surfline: Davi has been a fixture at various Monterey Bay area surf spots for decades; he's also spent time on Hawaii's North Shore, making friends with some of the locals there. Makua Rothman, who won the O'Neill World Cup of Surfing today in maxing Sunset Beach, said this about his final wave: "Unfortunately, one of my friends never made it today in California, and he just sent me that wave. So this is for bruddah Pete Davi. All you guys who don't know, he passed away today. Aloha bruddah, we love you." Pete is survived by his son Jake. Tribute Video.
The Memorial Service
Matthew 5: 44, 45
The surf on Wednesday settled quite a bit. Conditions improved vastly and with the drop in size things were much more manageable, especially for a SUP and my skill level. The morning was beautiful and clear with a stunning sunrise and light offshores. I should have paddled out at first light but I waited until the tide was full, around 0830.
I unloaded the Angulo, geared up and headed to the sand for my warm-ups and stretches. I ran into Tom and Jamie and talked story about the waves and surfers caught in precarious situations yesterday. Just as I was ready to paddle out the fog blew in reducing visibility to about 40 feet. A light onshore was married to the fog.
Because the surf was still in the 6 - 8 foot range, and the safest ocean access was through the shore pound which was significant during sets, I elected to wait and see if the fog would clear. I grew impatient. I didn't want to miss the chance to at least go for a paddle and try to get some of this swell. Finally the fog cleared enough for me to see, like a veiled mirage in the desert, the end of the pier from the beach. I timed a set and during the lull I hefted the SUP onto my left shoulder and waded into the whitewater. When the water reached crotch level I readied to flip the SUP off my shoulder and into the water. An incoming and nondescript broken wave of foam washed into me. I adjusted to balance and felt a "pop" in my hamstring. Pain. End of session.
I was barely able to hobble back to the car, load up and head to the clinic. This pull is going to require PT if I want to get back into the water sooner than later. I'm bummed but looking forward to the change in pattern. Adversity always seem to have some positive consequences when we are open to them. Changes in pattern force us to look at our habits if we're open to exploring that. And as Walter Martin used to say, "Nothing can come into your life that does not first pass through the filter of God's unconditional love for you." Words to remember.