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Srfnff
January 9, 2012 Photo: J. Chandler

Friday, December 21, 2007

High Surf, Low Temps




This morning's massive high tide wasn't even enough to offset the results of a double digit jump in swell numbers. Large waves were rolling through all the best spots promising some good surf later in the day if conditions hold...and they should. The low pressure storm system is heading east and being replaced by high pressure accompanied by light offshore winds and cold temperatures.

I've got yet another meeting this morning (final candidate interview for the 22nd Assembly District) and I'm really hoping that's it for the rest of the year except for the ratification meetings on the 27, 28, and 29. Then I'll be done and happily ensconced on my side of the hill for a long time.

I'll be back over in time for the low tide rising and I'm thinking the reefs could be the place if the swell doesn't get too big. More later...

Here's the later...The swell dropped dramatically during the day. MikeyB called me about at noon to say that he'd gotten some great waves mid to late morning. By the time I got into the water at 3:15PM there wasn't much left. The south/southeast wind was blowing onshore at about 5 mph. I surfed one of my favorite spots at the reefs by myself for two hours. I got tons of low quality waves, and a heck of a good workout as I was almost always in motion.

I was hoping that the incoming tide would juice up the waves but it didn't really happen. As soon as the south wind died down about 4:30, so did the waves. Since there was a lot more north in this swell, I figure that the energy just wasn't refracting into some spots. I happened to be at one of those spots.
December 21, 2007 (F)
In: 1515
1st Wave: 1530
Out: 1715
Wave count: n/a
AT= 54 - 47 degrees
WT= 54 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Partly cloudy
Tide: -1.0 Rising to 0.85
Wind: SE 6 mph to Calm
Sea Surface: Moderately bumpy
Buoy: NWS
1500:10.2 @ 12.9 WNW
1600: 12.1 @ 12.9 NW
1700: 11.2 @ 11.4 NW
1800: 11.5 @ 12.1 NW
10'4" Angulo SUP
Rock reefs
Waves: 6' @ 12 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model

1 comment:

  1. The unnamed spots on the opposite side of town from you looked very good at my twilight drive by on my way home from work tonight. I hope you got some. I think I may go for a PM session tomorrow at the end of my street--it was peeling off nicely just before dark.

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