Christmas day dawned bright, clear and cold. The farshore buoy read the peak of the swell at 4AM, registering 15 feet at 16 seconds WNW. The big question this morning...would the gains of the swell be wiped out by the deficits brought on by the quickly rising high, high tide? It depends upon where you decided to surf.
It was either feast or famine. My usual spots were too swamped to be rideable. Everything was large amounts of water and currents pushing but the waves were too fat to be anything but mushburgers. Meanwhile, down the line it was pumping...but only a couple big wave spots were working. And even there the line-ups and take-off spots were moving around and sketchy. Not that many people were actually riding because you couldn't cover the distance necessary to set-up well very quickly. And with so much water moving up the face of the wave it took a Herculean effort just to drop in.
The crowds while thin, were more populous than any Christmas day I can remember. Guys were running up the beach after their session, hot footing it home so the kids could open their presents. I can hear it now..."Mom, where's dad?" Gone surfing babies...
If the swell holds (the faraway buoys are all still going off) then this afternoon holds promise with a lower tide.
(Fast forward...) This afternoon I surfed over at Beginners and the Arena near Ma and Pa's so that I could meet them at their place for Christmas prior to heading out to the Hind Quarter for dinner. Swell was showing nicely and the reefs were lined up and holding up from the point to the inside. The lack of sand on the inside is making the place half of what it could be. No rain, no sand.
Got a few waves in super crowded conditions before paddling in for yet another Christmas celebration. With my new paddling technique my quads and hips are really getting a workout and they are sore! It was pretty bumpy out there and on top of yesterday's session and workout I got tired and weak legged after an hour. My 34th Christmas in our earthly paradise...
December 25, 2007 (Tu)
In: 1445
1st Wave: unk
Out: 1545
Wave count: n/a
AT= 53 - 52 degrees
WT= 53 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Sunny and bright with light high haze in the morning, sunny with high clouds in the afternoon
Tide: 1.15 Falling to -0.37
Wind: W 4 mph
Sea Surface: Bumpy with wind ripples
Buoy: NWS
1400:12.8 @ 14.8 NW
1500: 13.8 @ 14.8 WNW
1600: 12.8 @ 14.8 NW
1700: 12.8 @ 14.8 NW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 7' @ 13 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model
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