Me and the Angulo partnered up today for the best rides I have ever experienced at the reefs. I ripped down no less than five 375 yard (1/5th of a mile) waves from Yellow House to past Herbies. Like my son Neal used to say when he was a toddler..."I love you way up on top of God's House." That's how good it was today.
The forerunners hit the farshore buoy at 8AM, well ahead of schedule with 21 second period energy. It got better from there. By night fall the buoy was registering 10' at 19 seconds WNW. Size should increase all night long and peak sometime tomorrow. Once again I was too distracted by riding good waves to get any good water shots.
The reefs are on at lower tides, so tomorrow morning shouldn't be anything great there. But down towards the point could be goodus maximus (Latin for "most bitchin'".) I'll be out with the dawn patrol. Or...perhaps this is the year when it all comes together at a higher tide. Maybe even a mile ride from Sarges to the Pier? Oh My God!
It rarely gets this good, this lined up, this rich in congruent forces. Give thanks with a grateful heart.
January 11, 2008 (F)
In: 1545
1st Wave: n/a
Out: 1715
Wave count: n/a
AT= 58 - 55 degrees
WT= 54 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Partly cloudy
Tide: 1.8 Falling to -0.22
Wind: WSW at 1 mph to calm
Sea Surface: Rolling and bumpy sea to calm and semi-glassy
Buoy: NWS
1500: 8 @ 21 WNW
1600: 9 @ 19 W
1700: 9.5 @ 19 W
1800: 10.2 @ 19 WNW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 6-8 feet at 20 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model
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