It probably wasn't wind dispatched by the REAL devil, it just seemed that way.
Paddled out at 0750 onto a moderately bumpy sea, but manageable. Swell was registering 12 feet at 16 seconds from the NW at 4AM...a good sign, if only conditions would hold, and the incoming storm would back off just a bit. Well they didn't, and it didn't either.
If the east wind hadn't come up so early there would have been some classic head high sets. Even with the wind there were some good rides to be had, but it was a workout. Usually I get my water shots standing on my board, paddle resting against my chest and hands free. It was so bumpy after just a few minutes that my paddle wouldn't stay still. It just wanted to wash off my board. I got a couple nice long rides on head high waves, and a couple nice late, late takeoffs that I stuck, and a couple I didn't stick. C'est la vie...you never know unless you try.
Surfed it for two hours. Mikey B and Mash beat me out but went in early. Joe paddled out after an hour or so and kept me in the water another hour, where I got my best waves. Thanks Joe!
Leg strengthening exercises on the Bowflex are paying off. Today was a real leg workout, it never got easy and I couldn't relax, constant adjusting. Paddling to catch waves was a challenge there were so many troughs. The side chop would turn you 40 degrees in a single stroke if it caught you just right, causing the board to broach in the wave. There were also double troughs on the wave faces on take off, causing the board to nose into the "second" wave crest. You had to paddle through that without pearling to drop in again.
Wind never let up and grew steadily worse leading to the overhead rain clouds forecast by the NWS. There was so much bump in the water that the shoulders would white cap in the wave crest. Dodging storms.
January 31, 2008 (Th)
In: 0750
Out: 0945
AT= 44 - 50 degrees
WT= 53 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Another storm moving in
Tide: 3.3 Falling to 1.82
Wind: N at 2 mph, to E and SE at 4-6 mph
Sea Surface: Bumpy with white caps in the wave crests
Buoy: NWS
0700: 12.5 feet @ 16 Seconds NW
0800: 13.8 feet @ 14.8 Seconds NW
0900: 12.8 feet @ 16 Seconds NW
1000: 11.8 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 6 feet at 14 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model
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